WTN: Leistenberg Letdown

[David M. Bueker]

2015 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Nahe (9/3/2016)
For my first 2015 German Riesling I chose a bottling that I have enjoyed year after year since 1998. Unfortunately it let me down this time. There are a number of positive elements in this wine. It has good brightness, and the citrus and peach fruit is clear and fresh. The sweetness is nicely balanced by the acidity, and it's a good size for a Kabinett-not overblown, but nicely elegant. All sounds great, right? Well the problem is that the wine falls flat in the mid-palate and finish. What starts as so promising, just fails to deliver at the end. I have never experienced this with a Donnhoff wine, and it leaves me quite puzzled. Maybe I will pick up another bottle to try in 6 months or a year, but overall this is a troubling result.

What's going on at Dönnhoff? Change of generation? I am getting close to ordering some German Riesling via internet and had been thinking that I could completely trust Dönnhoff and, to a less extent, 2015 without tasting or specific recommendation.

[David M. Bueker]

Cornelius has largely taken over for his father, but that has been the fact for a few years. I had heard less than encouraging reports about the 2015 pradikat wines at Donnhoff, and wanted to check some out for myself.

You may be happy to know that Cornelius is more of a fan of the dry wines. He may be skimming a higher percentage of top fruit for those now that he has largely full control.

I am a big fan of the 2013 and 2014 vintages at Donnhoff, so it's not the change. Maybe they just missed it a little bit. It happens. Willi Schaefer missed 2001, and produced less than stellar wines in a stellar vintage. It happens.

I am a big fan of the 2013 and 2014 vintages at Donnhoff, so it's not the change. Maybe they just missed it a little bit. It happens.

2014 is still widely available with web sellers, so I'm reassured to hear that. Mosel Fine Wines claims that, although some '14s are wonderful, it's easy to make a bad pick in that region without good advice. In your experience, does that variability extend to other German regions?

[David M. Bueker]

Yeah, except that Pfalz is really good in my experience. I have been very happy with my 2014 Donnhoff selections.