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WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

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WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Jenise » Sat Sep 17, 2016 8:00 pm

Last night's neighborhood blind tasting. I served these six wines which represented, I thought, a nice swath of South and North America. As tie-ins, the starter Sauv Blancs were a Chilean (Los Vascos), a Californian (Guenoc Lake County), a Washington (Saviah) and a New Zealander for contrast.

Considering that I restricted the choices to the Americas, I probably couldn't have picked a more interesting lineup in that all six were distinctively different. There wasn't anyone in the room complaining that they couldn't tell them apart.

2012 Barrister Winery Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley
In the late 90's, two Spokane lawyers took their families on a trip to British Columbia. Along the way they stopped to buy some wine, and ended up with a winemaking kit and five pounds of Zinfandel grapes. They loved the result and voila, they turned winemakers. Their winery is located in Spokane. Big bodied, muscular and hedonistic. But my last place Cab Franc of six due to aggressive alcohol (14.6). $33.

2013 Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley VQA
Light in color, delicate in style. Has good herb presence rounded with mild malo. A pleasant sipper but even better with food. At a blind tasting of six bigger CFs, it outperformed the others at pairing with dilly-creamy Swedish meatballs. $23 (Canadian) It's lightness did poorly with the group but I gave it my 3rd place vote.

2014 Steele Wines Cabernet Franc Writer's Block Lake County
Tasty, balanced, medium bodied, with brambly raspberry and black cherry fruit plus licorice, and varietally correct CF at a bargain basement price! $15 where I live. Group 5th, my 4th.

2014 Bodega Catena Zapata Cabernet Franc Appellation San Carlos Mendoza
Has that weird skunky version of green olive top note on the aromatics that I have found in a few Chileans but never an Argentine before--four bottles were identical. Decanting early in day reduced it a little bit but did not eliminate; underneath is attractively rich sweet black currant fruit. However, due to the nose I expected this wine to come in last place as most of my tasters are new world centric and disliking any green flavors. Boy was I wrong: it was their first place (my fifth). $20

2012 Chinook Wines Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley
When I first moved to Washington and asked around about iconic wines to try, Chinook's Cab Franc was on the tip of several people's tongues and that's why I brought it in for this tasting. These wines aren't easy to find, winemaker Kay Simon and her husband Clay self-distribute. For this wine, she blends Estate fruit planted in 1991 with Boushey fruit planted in the 80's. This vintage exceeds my good memories of those earlier bottles, and it was my co-favorite along with the Andrew Will '13. Where the Andrew Will was more old school with mostly red fruits, the Chinook was more new world with a lot of blue fruit--concentrated raspberry and blueberry fruit, assertive yet feminine much like Kay herself; alc at just 13.0%, too. Her winery is located in Prosser. Two wonderful sides of the same coin. $25.

2013 Andrew Will Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley
Like Kay, Vashon Island winemaker Chris Camarda is a super fan of Cabernet Franc. So where Chris has moved toward grape and vineyard blends over the years, he still makes some stand-alone varieties and Cab Franc, from his Two Blondes vineyard, is one of them. This is a very sophisticated, somewhat old school (Bordeauxish) wine, mostly red fruit with hints of tobacco. Superb. And interestingly, the crowd agreed. The Catena slightly outscored this, but they had the same number of first place votes (14 each). $30.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by David M. Bueker » Sat Sep 17, 2016 11:08 pm

Nice selection. The Andrew Will is available at retail?
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Howie Hart » Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:14 am

I think you could have narrowed the topic to "West Coast", as there are some superb Cab Francs from the East Coast: Virginia, Long Island, Finger Lakes, Niagara Peninsula, etc.
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Sun Sep 18, 2016 12:41 pm

Right on Howie, set the record straight :lol: .
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Jenise » Sun Sep 18, 2016 3:51 pm

Of course Howie's correct about that. But none of those are available here and it goes without saying that I can only pour what I can get ahold of, so....
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Howie Hart » Sun Sep 18, 2016 4:51 pm

FWIW - the East Coast CFs tend to more closely resemble those from the Loire, as opposed to Bordeaux.
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by David M. Bueker » Sun Sep 18, 2016 7:31 pm

Virginia has not come close to anything like what comes out of the rest of the USA. Finger Lakes has some very credible wines though.
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by John S » Mon Sep 19, 2016 1:46 am

Both Ontario and BC have some good examples of cab franc, and many think it is the best suited red to these regions (especially Ontario).

I don't think I've tried a Chinook wine before, but the cab franc sounded like it would be up my alley.
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Jenise » Mon Sep 19, 2016 2:46 am

John S wrote:Both Ontario and BC have some good examples of cab franc, and many think it is the best suited red to these regions (especially Ontario).

I don't think I've tried a Chinook wine before, but the cab franc sounded like it would be up my alley.


I know there are a lot of good BC cab francs. It's now the fourth most-grown red grape in the province, taking over that position from syrah because syrah had a lot of buggy issues and CF has a shorter growing season. It just makes sense. Where I shopped, Poplar Grove was also available, and so was (supposedly) Syncromesh but when I showed up to buy the Syncromesh they didn't have even one bottle let alone the four I needed. So I went with Tinhorn Creek knowing that producer considers it a specialty, and because it was $17C cheaper than the only other candidate, Poplar Grove. I was sure PG would have been the better wine but I didn't expect the Tinhorn Creek to be so light and delicate. As a food wine, I actually liked it for that but in the beauty pageant that a multiple-wine tasting is, a wine like that had Last Place written all over it. And in a vintage like 2013, it's close to unforgiveable.

But yes yes yes on the Chinook. You'd love it. Hard to find though as they're self-distributed so not widely available.
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Jenise » Mon Sep 19, 2016 2:48 am

David M. Bueker wrote:Nice selection. The Andrew Will is available at retail?


Yes indeed.
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Ken Schechet » Thu Sep 22, 2016 8:28 pm

If there's one area of the US that seems to specialize in Cab Francs it's the North Fork of Long Island in New York. There's some wonderful stuff out there. It's a shame that it's hardly available anywhere outside of the New York City area. They are almost all small operations and not built for mass distribution. But if you're in that area invest an afternoon visiting the many wineries out there.
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Thu Sep 22, 2016 9:59 pm

I have access to Fox Run here in AB, pretty pleased with what I have sampled.
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Jon Leifer » Thu Sep 22, 2016 10:05 pm

Ken: any particular LI wineries you have in mind re Cab Franc? I will be out on the East End wine tasting next week

thx, Jon
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Victorwine » Fri Sep 23, 2016 11:08 pm

Hi Jon,
I definitely agree with Ken, Cab Franc on the East End of Long Island can give Merlot (the region’s “Flagship” grape variety) a run for its money. Unlike Merlot it is much more difficult to grow and needs quite a lot more TLC in the vineyards. But IMHO LI Cab Franc is much more versatile than Merlot and produces wines that are much more interesting, complex and multi-dimensional. You might find the NYT article written by Howard G. Goldberg interesting.

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/11/06/nyreg ... .html?_r=0

Besides those wineries I would also recommend
Macari
Anthony Nappa
Jamesport
Sannino

Salute
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by James Roscoe » Sat Sep 24, 2016 4:17 pm

Virginia has outstanding Cab Francs as Howie will attest. Not just Barboursville, but Linden, Chester Gap, Blenheim (Dave Matthews), and of course Trump, the winery we hate to love or love to hate. At least the wine is good.
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Jenise » Sat Sep 24, 2016 4:22 pm

Really, Trump? Politics completely aside, I've not heard anyone impartial say anything good about Trump wines. I've concluded that at best, they're just average.
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Jon Leifer » Sat Sep 24, 2016 4:54 pm

Victor..thx for the article, We have visits to Wolffer, Bedell and Paumonock lined up..Had hoped to visit Jamesport while we are there, love their SB, but they won't be open on weekdays..will check out Macari(nice SB's) and Nappa..heard good things about him but haven't tasted any of his wines as yet
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Ken Schechet » Sat Sep 24, 2016 11:08 pm

Jon, sorry I've been away for a few days. I am very partial to Paumanok because it is run by Charles Massoud who is a friend of mine. He will guide you to other good wineries, and you have two of his neighbors identified already. Also check out http://www.spivakonwine.com. It is a dead website but the last issue is still up and there's an article I wrote about Charles and Long Island wine that will give you some background and a few others to visit.
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Jon Leifer » Sun Sep 25, 2016 5:53 pm

Ken: thanks for the link to your great article, I think we bought the first 4 Paumonock wines you listed the last time we were, plus a number of other Paumonock wines...Charles is a very classy gentleman and a gracious host..Just swapped emails with Charles earlier today..He and Ursula will be out of town when we are there but we look forward to meeting Kareem who was tipped off by Charles that we wd stopping by..Have heard nice things about Shinn as well but have not yet tasted any of their wines.
A visit to Paumonock is always pencilled in for any of our trips to the East End.
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Jon Leifer » Wed Oct 05, 2016 2:34 pm

Ken: Got to taste with Charles after all as his schedule changed, also got to meet Kareem..Charles says hello..We started at Bedell and tasted the 2013 and 2014 CF's side by side, nothing to write home about though I did prefer the 2014..tasted several wines at Macari but opted not try their CF as our next stop ws Paumonok..Kinda makes you feel special when Charles greets you effusively by name in a voice that carries across the tasting room. I loved his Chenin blancs, sauv blancs and rose, the basic white label CF is a nice wine..The 2013 black label Grand Vintage CF is stunning..Charles says the white label CF for current drinking and the black label will reward cellaring, I won't quibble with that but the black label was just too good right now not to drink right now and I enjoyed a glass of it while swapping stories with Charles about the old days..A truly magnificent wine!!. The surprise of the tasting, however, was the 2013 grand vintage (black label) Petit Verdot...A little back story first..Years ago, when I first visited Paumonok, Charles had insisted that I taste his 2005 Petit Verdot, I believe this was the initial bottling.I thought the wine was hard as a brick and wd outlive me..I am still here and the wine sold out..The 2013 is a stunner, redolent of black fruits and blueberries, will reward cellaring, if you can keep your hands off it, drinking deliciously right now...Also tasted at Wolffer and Channings Daughters, Wolffer CF quite nice but not in same league as the Paumonok version., it will probably improve with cellaring..
I previously had thought that the best NY Cab Francs were made by Damiani..Finger Lakes..Will revise that and rank Paumonok grand vintage CF as #1.
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Victorwine » Wed Oct 05, 2016 7:15 pm

Hi Jon,
Hope you and your family had a nice time visiting LI. Did you take notice if the bottles of wines you tasted with Charles was under screw-cap or natural cork?

Salute
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Wed Oct 05, 2016 7:37 pm

Good to see there is still an active CF discussion here. Last weekend I was very impressed with the Malivoire from Ontarios 20 Mile Bench and am now ready to try the Tawse.
It is indeed a pity that Jenise has no access to these eastern wines.
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Jon Leifer » Wed Oct 05, 2016 8:22 pm

Victor: the black label CF has a cork, the Rose, SB,Chenin Blancs and the Perit Verdot have screw caps. ..I didn't pay close attention to the other wines but wd not be surprised if all his whites had screw caps.
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Re: WTN: Six New World Cab Francs

by Joe Moryl » Thu Oct 06, 2016 9:51 am

Jon,

Thanks for the LI update. I too enjoy the Paumonok wines, although it has been awhile since I've had any. I used to spend some time working with a temperamental apparatus at Brookhaven National Lab and when it was down we would go winetasting. In recent years I haven't felt like battling the LI traffic, so I'm not up to date on the wine scene out there. Any observations on Channing Daughters? I've never visited, but usually enjoy their wines (mostly the whites).

BTW, have you noticed there is a Finger Lakes CF being made under the Schneider-Bieler label, with the Schneider being related to the LI winery Schneiders. It is also related to the Gotham Project, which is marketing a range of wines on tap to NYC area restaurants. No experience with the CF, but I once had a Gotham FL Riesling from the keg that was decent.
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