WTN: Beringer? Beringer. Merlot? Merlot.

Beringer 1994 Howell Mountain Merlot, Bancroft Ranch. One of a handful of bottles of probably-too-old California wines bought at correspondingly reasonable prices, on the off-chance they'd still hold some interest. The color of this one is still pretty fresh, though not as opaque as I'd guess it once was, and it still has some deep, sweet-tart plum and blackberry fruit, accented by tobacco and a little wood-smoke, which made it a nice match for the deep flavors in our leftover brisket. The whole thing is framed by enough acidity to keep things focused, though the drying, raspy tannins on the finish suggest that this may never have been in perfect balance. Still, even in its imperfection, a nice taste of how interesting California Merlot can be, even after more than two decades -- maybe especially if grown at 1800 feet. As whimsical bets against decrepitude go, this paid off pretty well.

[David M. Bueker]

That's always been a top notch bottling, despite the Merlot stigma.

Yes, that was the impression I got when I researched the bottle. Always happy to have my prejudices undermined! Well, usually happy.

Great stuff. My first trip to Napa was in 89 and the Beringer tour was terrific for those just starting out. They made a lot of great wines in the 80s and 90s. Can't remember the last time I have tasted anything from them. They seem to have fallen out of favor in the circles I run.

Not a huge Merlot fan but the beating it took in Sideways was both fair ... and unfair.

Cheers,

Jason

[Jenise]

Jason, here's one of those silly Six Degrees connections that actually come up fairly often in wine: I took a '94 Beringer Bancroft Ranch Merlot to the first So Cal offline I ever went to--that's where I met Semaj Dietz the first time with whom I know you congress from time to time. And here we are talking about it.

Patchen--had one not long ago myself. Indeed, it's a powerful wine that has aged very, very well.

What a funny set of coincidences, Jenise!

FWIW, I don't think my prejudices against (California) Merlot were driven by Sideways -- they preceded it -- and anyway they've never been absolute: I've always been aware of some excellent bottlings that bucked the 1990s mass-production trend. But this one wasn't on my radar, which was why I was enthusiastic to try it. I do think this particular bottle felt on the (top of the) downslope, and I wish I could have had it a few years ago; but, like I said, it was still quite good. I see it's still being produced (though now going for $80 for the newest release!).

[David M. Bueker]

Patchen,

Look out for the Matthiasson Merlot. I think you would like it, and it's less expensive than the Beringer.

Thanks, David, I'll watch for it. The only red I've seen in Chicago, other than the 1L jug red I posted on a while back, was the Oak Knoll Cabernet, but you never know what'll turn up.

Jason, here's one of those silly Six Degrees connections that actually come up fairly often in wine: I took a '94 Beringer Bancroft Ranch Merlot to the first So Cal offline I ever went to--that's where I met Semaj Dietz the first time with whom I know you congress from time to time. And here we are talking about it.

Hah. You should come back and we'll see if we can wrangle Semaj.

Jason

FWIW, I don't think my prejudices against (California) Merlot were driven by Sideways -- they preceded it

I hope I didn't imply that it was Sideways for you. And I am with you, I had my prejudices against many of the wines long before.

Cheers,
Jason

Not at all, Jason! You just prompted me to try to remember the timing in my own case.