WTN: 2014 Beaujolais Test Drive (Thivin, Descombes)

[David M. Bueker]

I decided to do a little test drive of some 2014 Beaujolais. The selected wines were the 2014 Chateau Thivin Cote de Brouilly and the 2014 Georges Descombes Brouilly. Overall the two wines were quite similar, with ruby red color, light to medium body (more on the light side), good acidic backbone and light tannins. Overall it would have been hard to tell the two wines apart. I wanted to like them.

Unfortunately both wines had an identical flaw. Each one showed a green tobacco note that grew in intensity over time. While I was not initially put off by the note, it came to dominate both wines, as there was not enough fruit depth to counterbalance the green. I left the Thivin overnight to see what it would do, but the imbalance only became worse with time. I did not come close to finishing half of either bottle.

I am not sure what was going on here. I had read good things about 2014 from people I trust, but these were not for me.

There is always another vintage.

I haven't had the Descombes, but liked the Thivin a lot last year. . Certainly we all have different tastes, and possibly more important different sensitivities/reactions to different compounds. But I also wonder if the Thivin is shutting down a bit. At our Billards tasting a week ago I was struck by how the '14 had closed up from not so distant tastings. I actually wrote something (which somehow never apparently never actually submitted/posted) on Jenise's Dorks do Beaujolais thread surprised that only 1 '14 had shut down.

Of course green tobacco leaf (a scent of my childhood, growing up in the Piedmont of NC, there were tobacco farms on my way to school) in moderation at least isn't something I object to- I get in Sociando, Figeac, occasionally red Loires. Don't recall in a Beaujolais. I do remember the Thivin as floral. Hard to separate tastes, physiological differences, bottle differences, etc (and that's discounting root days!).

[Jenise]

How long do you intend to hold other bottles?

[David M. Bueker]

Not sure. I at least expect to give the remaining Descombes another 2-4 years before I try again.

I usually buy a few Thivin Cote de Brouillys every year but, for reasons I forget, the 2014 just didn't do it for me. But the 2015 is delicious, or rather is going to be. Any thoughts on how long to hold the 2015 Crus Beaujolais in general? I'm impressed with the ten or so I have tasted so far.

[David M. Bueker]

I have not yet tried any 2015s, but I am hearing it's a ripe vintage, not unlike 2009. So I would expect them to drink well now, as well as for quite a long time. I am just getting back into my 2009 stash, and the wines are lovely.

I had the '14 Descombes Morgon VV earlier this year and it was also leaning towards the ungenerous side. I had been hoping to drink the rest of the bottles soon, but was forced to wait! So I would expect the 'regular' Brouilly to also be ungenerous, but perhaps with more mixed prospects for future aging?