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WTN: Mostly Mencia (plus Rieslings and a Pinot d'Alsace)

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Mostly Mencia (plus Rieslings and a Pinot d'Alsace)

by Dale Williams » Mon Apr 24, 2017 2:05 pm

With cod and chickpeas in chipotle broth, the 2015 Merkelbach Urziger Wurzgarten Spatlese #1.
Citrus and red cherry, lighter styled, this is more like old style Spatlese than the more common recent Auslese in disguise. Long finish, lively. B++

Over to Dave’s for Mencia night. Wines were blind, but not sure anyone had enough knowledge to make that meaningful!

2013 Guimaro Finca Meixeman
My wine. Crunchy black raspberry fruit, peppery, spicy. Well balanced, full, delicious. B+/A-

2015 Guimaro Mencia
Redder fruits, more peppery spice, lighter. B+.

2011 Dominio de Tares Bierzo Cepas Viejas (Mencía )
Black plums, herb, a little glossier than other wines but quite good. B/B+

2013 El Castro De Valtuille Joven Bierzo
Fruit forward, juicy, straight up. B

2014 Avancia “Cuvee de O” Mencia( Valdeorras )
Good, but somewhat Cabernetish, very ripe. B/B-

Vintage? Rectoral de Amandi Ribeira Sacra
Spicy, crunchy red fruits, very good. B+/B

Fun night with the guys

Following night we had a Thai skirt steak salad, I thought “Betsy didn’t have any Mencia”, that would work nicely, and I hadn’t carried my backup bottle to cellar yet. The 2014 Decima Mencia (Ribeira Sacra) was lovely, spice, coffee, and violets over bright dark fruits. B+/A-

With a shrimp and bok choy ramen (with egg), a couple whites

2014 Barth Pinot d’Alsace
Light and easy, pear and lemon with a little herb, good QPR. B/B+

2014 Eva Fricke Schlossberg Riesling
Big (BIG), but pure and crisp. Slatey minerality, citrus, apple, smoke. Impressive. B+/A-

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Hmmm..

by TomHill » Mon Apr 24, 2017 2:30 pm

Dale Williams wrote:Vintage? Rectoral de Amandi Ribeira Sacra
Spicy, crunchy red fruits, very good. B+/B



Hmmmm...strikes me as a big marketing fail there, Dale.

Nice notes. I love Mencia as a rule. A grape they should be planting all up&down the coast of Calif.
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Re: WTN: Mostly Mencia (plus Rieslings and a Pinot d'Alsace)

by David M. Bueker » Mon Apr 24, 2017 3:48 pm

I am the anti-Hill. I have never had a Mencia that convinced me to try a second glass.
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Re: WTN: Mostly Mencia (plus Rieslings and a Pinot d'Alsace)

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Mon Apr 24, 2017 7:22 pm

Yeah, I have struggled too David. Not sure why Tom is getting all revved up about wines from California?
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Re: WTN: Mostly Mencia (plus Rieslings and a Pinot d'Alsace)

by David M. Bueker » Mon Apr 24, 2017 7:33 pm

Stirring/the/pot.
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Re: Hmmm..

by Tim York » Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:45 am

TomHill wrote:Nice notes. I love Mencia as a rule. A grape they should be planting all up&down the coast of Calif.
Tom


Tom, what makes you think that Mencia would prosper in California? At present, it is only producing outstanding wines in a quite small parts of NW Spain and N Portugal (where it is called Jaén). This region has an Altantic climate, cooler than the rest of Spain and subject to quite a lot of rain in the spring and autumn. Furthermore two of the regions where it does best, Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra, have very steep slopes which are often terraced for easier working as well as a geology ( a lot of slate) which suits the grape. Are there parts of California which would match these characteristics? I know that lack of rain has been a problem in recent years.

Unlike David and Bob, I am a fan of Mencia from Bierzo, where I find it can show a quasi Côte-Rôtie type elegance combined with a more southerly warmth, provided that the producer does not have a heavy hand with oak, a constant bugbear in Spain. I have also had enjoyable examples from Valdeorras and Dão, but regrettably not yet from Ribeira Sacra.
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Re: Hmmm..

by TomHill » Tue Apr 25, 2017 12:14 pm

Tim York wrote:
TomHill wrote:Nice notes. I love Mencia as a rule. A grape they should be planting all up&down the coast of Calif.
Tom


Tom, what makes you think that Mencia would prosper in California? At present, it is only producing outstanding wines in a quite small parts of NW Spain and N Portugal (where it is called Jaén). This region has an Altantic climate, cooler than the rest of Spain and subject to quite a lot of rain in the spring and autumn. Furthermore two of the regions where it does best, Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra, have very steep slopes which are often terraced for easier working as well as a geology ( a lot of slate) which suits the grape. Are there parts of California which would match these characteristics? I know that lack of rain has been a problem in recent years.

Unlike David and Bob, I am a fan of Mencia from Bierzo, where I find it can show a quasi Côte-Rôtie type elegance combined with a more southerly warmth, provided that the producer does not have a heavy hand with oak, a constant bugbear in Spain. I have also had enjoyable examples from Valdeorras and Dão, but regrettably not yet from Ribeira Sacra.


I have no idea that it would do well in Calif, Tim. I only say that because I think Mencia has some intrinsic qualities that can
inherently make a great wine. Therefore, it could potentially make a good/great wine in Calif as well. Certainly, I can't think
of anyplace in Calif that would mimic the soils/climate of Bierzo. That doesn't mean it couldn't make a good/great wine in Calif.
In fact, in Calif it might take Mencia to even greater heights of greatness. The soils/climate of MtVeeder or MonteBelloRidge don't resemble the gravelly plains of Bordeaux. The soils/climate of the far SonomaCoast don't resemble that of Burgundy.
Yet it doesn't prevent great Cabernet or Pinot from being grown there.
You just never know until you try it. And they probably won't try it in Calif because Mencia doesn't make a sufficiently great
wine in Spain that it will attract anyone to attempt it in Calif.
But there are plenty of examples of grape varieties that outperform in Calif compared to their origins in Europe.
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Re: Hmmm..

by Tim York » Tue Apr 25, 2017 2:39 pm

TomHill wrote: But there are plenty of examples of grape varieties that outperform in Calif compared to their origins in Europe.
Tom


I grant you Zinfandel/Primitivo but otherwise which ones? Different and a valid expression of the grape, yes, but outperform?
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Re: WTN: Mostly Mencia (plus Rieslings and a Pinot d'Alsace)

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Apr 25, 2017 3:11 pm

Good point Tim, am keen to hear the answer :D
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OhhhhKay....

by TomHill » Tue Apr 25, 2017 7:37 pm

Tim York wrote:
TomHill wrote: But there are plenty of examples of grape varieties that outperform in Calif compared to their origins in Europe.
Tom


I grant you Zinfandel/Primitivo but otherwise which ones? Different and a valid expression of the grape, yes, but outperform?


OK, Tim......but we're opening a can of worms here because we're talking about personal tastes. I would highly
recommend the Styrian Schilcher as the ideal wine to accompany worms.

It sorta depends on what I mean by "outperform". I use that term to mean I prefer/enjoy the wines from Calif, averaged over all
the examples of that variety, to those from that native area in Europe. Or, also, the best/greatest example of that variety that
I've had comes from Calif, that it's given me more pleasure than any example I've had from its original home in Europe.
Obviously, I've not had every example of a variety from Calif or Europe, so I can only rely on the data points I have,
the limited number of those wines I've tried. And certainly you have to include the price as a factor.

And then there are those folks who are passionate about the European original varieties and totally dismiss any examples
from Calif because they don't smell/taste the same as the original European versions. They are "different" and, ergo, not
as good as the original versions. There are folks who would never think of trying/drinking a Calif Pinot because it's "different"
from RedBurg. Or a Calif Nebbiolo (or a Valtelline Nebb) because it's "different" from any from the Langhe. And if someone
comes along and says a Calif Pinot is "world class", they construe as an attack on their favored RedBurgs.

Clearly the example you cite, Zinfandel/Primitivo/Tribidrag, is a good one. I've yet to have a Puglia Primitivo or Croatian
Tribidrag that holds a candle to most any from Calif. But there are those that like the bretty/unclean/barnyardy character
of Apulia Primitivo and would argue this point.

And I would say that PetiteSirah/Durif/Peloursin is another example. Most any from Calif I've had are far superior to any of the
few I've had from France.

I would say, on average, the Vermentinos from Calif are outperforming any of those from Sardinia or the Langhe.
The Rymes, the TablasCreek, the EdmundsStJohn give me more pleasure than most any from the European versions.

The Harrington Lagrein is "better" than any I've had from the AltoAdige. The Ryme Aglianico is better than any I've
had from Compania/Basilicata. The Lagier-Meredith Mondeuse is better than any I've had from Savoie. The Idlewild
Arneis and Cortese is better than any from Piemonte, on average, I've had. When it comes to Gruner, those of Austria
are clearly on the top of the heap. But you can find plenty of dull/washed-out Austrian Gruners out there. The Carlisle
Gruner, maybe the Solminer, measure up to most that I've had from Austria...though that point is disputed by some.

Viognier?? The greatest Viogniers I've had are from Condrieu. But, on average, $ for $, I prefer many of the Viogniers from Calif.
Failla/TablasCreek/Ojai/Jaffurs are a few who come to mind. Same story on Roussanne. The greatest I've had come
from Hermitage. But, $ for $, I'd go with a Calif Roussanne any day.

So let's go out onto thin ice here and talk PinotNoir. The greatest examples of PinotNoir I've had, many a year ago, have
been RedBurgs. But I'm unwilling to spend $300-$800/btl to get a RedBurg/Pinot that I truly enjoy and blown away by.
I would rather spend $30-$50-$70/btl for a Calif Pinot that I can enjoy almost equally well. I would argue that, to my taste,
Calif Pinot outperforms RedBurg in that price range.

So lets go waaay out on a limb and talk something near & dear to your heart, Tim. Nebbiolo. I would say, easily, that the
greatest examples of Nebbiolo I've had have been from Barolo/Barbaresco. I've yet to have a Calif version that measures
up to those heights...yet. But I get more enjoyment from drinking a Castelli Nebb at $30, at this point in time, than any B/B
that I've tried at that price point. And if you include that vast sea of Langhe Nebb at that price point, I'd still go with the
Castelli or the DueVigne. To my palate, I just don't get a great deal of pleasure from drinking Langhe Nebb. In fact, to my
palate, the best examples of Nebb, $ for $, come not from the Langhe, but from the Valtelline and the Val d'Ossola and
the Alto Piemonte. But this is just my palate and, after all, I prefer to drink what I like. I love the perfume of Langhe Nebb...
I just have a hard time enjoying those hard/bitey/astringent tannins some many show on the palate.

And I'm not even going to wade into the morass of talking Cabernet vs. RedBdx.

So...my thoughts (long/boring) on that subject.

Tom
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Re: WTN: Mostly Mencia (plus Rieslings and a Pinot d'Alsace)

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Apr 25, 2017 7:44 pm

Thanks Tom. I immediately think of a Cab Franc from Chinon or Bourgueil. There is no way on earth that anyone from Calif. can replicate such a CF. Just the terroir alone from this area of the Loire Valley.

Very good discussion with valued chat from Tim especially.
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Hmmmm...

by TomHill » Tue Apr 25, 2017 7:51 pm

Bob Parsons Alberta wrote:Thanks Tom. I immediately think of a Cab Franc from Chinon or Bourgueil. There is no way on earth that anyone from Calif. can replicate such a CF. Just the terroir alone from this area of the Loire Valley.

Very good discussion with valued chat from Tim especially.


Why would anyone in Calif want to "replicate" Loire CabFranc, Bob??
Ot Langhe Nebb? Or Burgundy Pinot?
That's really the crux of the problem there. That's the problem we have in NEB.
So many people dismiss Calif Nebb because it is "different" from Langhe Nebb and are unwilling to acknowledge that it
can be good as its own expression of Nebb.
Once they quite trying to replicate RedBurg in Calif, that was when they started to make great Calif
PinotNoir.
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Re: WTN: Mostly Mencia (plus Rieslings and a Pinot d'Alsace)

by David M. Bueker » Tue Apr 25, 2017 8:03 pm

Wow Tom. You sure used a whole lot of words to say very little of substance.

If you are going to equivocate on "outperform" then your entire argument is a waste of time.

And I disagree with you on every single grape except the ones that are pretty much only taken seriously in California, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah.
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Re: WTN: Mostly Mencia (plus Rieslings and a Pinot d'Alsace)

by Tim York » Wed Apr 26, 2017 1:48 am

David M. Bueker wrote:Wow Tom. You sure used a whole lot of words to say very little of substance.

If you are going to equivocate on "outperform" then your entire argument is a waste of time.

And I disagree with you on every single grape except the ones that are pretty much only taken seriously in California, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah.


I do recall drinking a very fine Petite Sirah from Ridge, I think. However, I can't recall any appellation using Petite Sirah/Durif in Europe and have certainly never tasted any.
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Re: WTN: Mostly Mencia (plus Rieslings and a Pinot d'Alsace)

by David M. Bueker » Wed Apr 26, 2017 7:31 am

I know I have had at least two bottles of European Durif. Can't recall the producers, but they were slipped into a Petite Sirah tasting several years ago in Boston.
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Re: WTN: Mostly Mencia (plus Rieslings and a Pinot d'Alsace)

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Wed Apr 26, 2017 8:51 am

Maybe "replicate" is the wrong word. I enjoy Cab Franc from a few worldly areas but choice up here is limited. I am not an expert on California CF, have tasted very few but feel that it will never compare to the wines from say the Loire Valley which I am more familiar with.
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Yup...

by TomHill » Wed Apr 26, 2017 9:12 am

Bob Parsons Alberta wrote:Maybe "replicate" is the wrong word. I enjoy Cab Franc from a few worldly areas but choice up here is limited. I am not an expert on California CF, have tasted very few but feel that it will never compare to the wines from say the Loire Valley which I am more familiar with.


Yup, Bob....replicate or mimic is probably not the right word. Maybe "aspire to"??

How do you feel about Red Bdx Cab Franc?? Say LaFleur or ChevalBlanc, which many regard as the
greatest expressions of that grape?? Because of their price & scarcity, I suspect you've not tried them.

Because I've pretty much blown off RedBdx, about the only CabFranc I drink are Loire. I've had a number from
WashState that I've liked a lot. But, again, they're more in a RedBdx style.

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Re: WTN: Mostly Mencia (plus Rieslings and a Pinot d'Alsace)

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Wed Apr 26, 2017 12:34 pm

I do not spend any money on Bordeaux, in fact I try to keep my wine purchases to under $50 a bottle! My in-house PO keeps an eye on me :( .
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Re: WTN: Mostly Mencia (plus Rieslings and a Pinot d'Alsace)

by Dale Williams » Wed Apr 26, 2017 1:18 pm

David, I'm a little surprised - while I wouldn't expect you to love the modern styled Mencia like Palacios (I was kinda shocked no one brought one to this tasting, only the Tares was in that mold) I would have thought producers like Guimaro would appeal to you.

I'm not a Europhilic purist, and I like plenty of CA PN - though probably not ones Tom loves. I love ESJ's Syrahs & Vermentino/Grenache blanc, but don't try to compare them to Cote-Rotie or Cornas, or Ligurian or Corsican Vermentino (who drink Langhe vermentino?). I'll happily try a CA Mencia when one comes out, but probably not on my dime- based on what happens with Gruner, Lagrein, etc. it would probably be $40-50, not usually what I spend on something with no track record. . I do like Heitz Grignolino, but it's a bit more than most good Piedmont producers.

Not usually a fan of CA CF, but only had a few examples (I sometimes awake from nightmares of the Pride). I do think Loire is a better comparison than Cheval (usually 65CF/35M) or Lafleur, (50/50). I did like the 66CF/34M blend than Michael Havens used to make.
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Re: WTN: Mostly Mencia (plus Rieslings and a Pinot d'Alsace)

by Tim York » Thu Apr 27, 2017 3:44 am

Bob Parsons Alberta wrote:I do not spend any money on Bordeaux, in fact I try to keep my wine purchases to under $50 a bottle! My in-house PO keeps an eye on me :( .


Bob, I now find myself going back into buying a bit of Bordeaux. Not wines for the long haul (of which I have a good few >15 years old), but wines from lesser châteaux to drink at <10 years from vintage. Over here, there plenty of good ones for <€20, though guidance is needed to separate the wheat from the chaff. Rudi F's thread on the UK pages gives a lot of nice examples. Surely you can find some like these for <CAD 50 in Alberta?
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Re: WTN: Mostly Mencia (plus Rieslings and a Pinot d'Alsace)

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Thu Apr 27, 2017 1:42 pm

Can indeed Tim and I have purchased when a rep downtown says "you will like this Bob".

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