WTN: Peay Syrah Syrah

Peay Vineyards 2006 Sonoma Coast Syrah, "La Bruma." 13.9% abv. Cool blue fruit, framed by white pepper; gestures in the direction of olives but doesn't really go full-on savory. Bold and ripe but also lithe and energetic: a great example of a cool-climate California Syrah that manages to be big AND delicate at the same time. I was hoping for a little more tertiary development, but this still comes across as young: if I had one more, I'd hold at least five years (but if I had two more, I might just drink the first one next weekend). A one-off bottle bought last year on a lark; it makes me want to follow this wine vintage in and vintage out.

[David M. Bueker]

Peay is making good stuff. I tend to buy their Pinots, which are also big yet delicate.

I've only tried the Peay "La Bruma" once at a Nantucket Wine Festival session called "Sultans of Sonoma." It showed tons of potential but I thought it definitely needed some age on it to show its best.