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WTN: Norman PN, Talbot 89,Rauzan-S 95,Saumur Insolite......

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Tim York

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WTN: Norman PN, Talbot 89,Rauzan-S 95,Saumur Insolite......

by Tim York » Fri May 19, 2017 1:59 am

Highlights in this part of April came with the mature clarets accompanying Easter’s traditional Spring lamb and with the fine dry white Saumur paired with succulent turbot on Good Friday.

2014 Les Arpents du Soleil Rouge - France, Normandy (4/8/2017)
When I tasted this from the barrel two years ago, I marked it down as a future purchase and managed to buy half a dozen last August after promising the grower, Gérard Samson, to hold off opening them for at least six months. He could well have lengthened that period because the wine is only at the beginning of its drinking window with a very shy nose but already expressive palate, though at this point less so than the barrel samples in 2015. Colour quite light and transparent but tasting medium bodied on the palate with some depth of fine cherry tinged Pinot fruit, silky texture, minerals, moreish acidity and gentle backbone. I am confident that as this ages, opens up and acquires complexity, it will rival Burgundies costing much more than double its price of €10 for 50cl. Good already.
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2013 Tenuta Pule Ripasso della Valpolicella Classico Superiore - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Ripasso della Valpolicella Classico Superiore (4/10/2017)
Very enjoyable medium bodied Valpolicella Ripasso with cherry tinged fruit, kirsch tinged finish, decent acidity and backbone and absence of cloying flavours which sometimes afflict this type. Good wine and good QPR at c.€7. Lidl are making a good effort with wine!
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2015 Domaine Cheysson Chiroubles Le Bouchy - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Chiroubles (4/11/2017)
Enjoyable robust Chiroubles which needs to open up more.

Retasted on 4/12/2017, it had indeed opened up to show lively red fruit with a hint of prune with some roundness and depth. It might have benefited from decanting on the first day! Good.
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2014 Domaine du Cros (Philippe Teulier) Marcillac Lo Sang del Païs - France, Southwest France, Marcillac (4/12/2017)
Following on a Chiroubles, I was very conscious of this wine's greater leanness and it took a moment to adjust to this and to its sharper fruit, tangy acidity and earthy minerals. Delightful once adjustment accomplished with more personality than the Marcillac Les Crestes from Les Vignerons du Vallon. Good+.

Retasted on 4/15/2017, it had lost a little bloom but was still characterful and enjoyable.
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2013 Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur L'Insolite - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (4/14/2017)
I think that my early unenthusiastic judgement on 2013 dry Loire Chenin was too hasty. Following the Peter Hahn Vouvray, this is another winner. Superb focus of juicy white fruit, with a notable citrus element, bracing minerals, mouth-watering acidity, some underlying roundness and good backbone. It will probably acquire more complexity with time but delicious right now. Not quite bone dry or saline enough for some Isigny oysters but perfect with turbot and assorted goat cheeses. Very Good.

2008 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (4/16/2017)
Typical Abtsberg elegance and fragrance with a touch more mouth-watering acidity and less sugar than usual. Almost dry seeming. Very good.
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1989 Château Talbot - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (4/16/2017)
It took some time to get into its stride. Colour still quite deep red but amber tints on pour. Nose expressive showing fragrant mature fruit with cedar touches. Medium bodied palate was suave and seamless replaying the aromas from the nose with discreet sweet warm vintage hints balanced by fresh acidity leading to a firm and quite long finish. Very good.
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1995 Château Rauzan-Ségla - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (4/16/2017)
This followed the Talbot '89 and the immediate impressions were of more youthful colour and of fuller body, stronger acidity, more marked tannins and overall more savoury and virile character. There is some attractive graphite tinged raspberry fruit but IMO it was less balanced and harmonious than the Talbot but some may prefer its greater power. Will more time be beneficial or will the fruit dry out before the tannins? Just about very good.
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NV Ramos Pinto Porto 10 Year Old Tawny Quinta de Ervamoira - Portugal, Douro, Porto (4/16/2017)
Yes the label does say tawny, but its quite deep ruby colour and its marked backbone could have fooled me. Once expectations were adjusted, I was able to enjoy its robust style with medium+ body, nut tinged fruit and firmness of structure. Good.
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2014 Casa Maestra Patrimonio - France, Corsica, Patrimonio (4/17/2017)
A sound wine but lacking in character with nothing to give a clue to its Patrimonio source or its Niellucciu (AKA Sangiovese) grape variety. Nose closed with just a suspicion of violet and liquorice and medium bodied palate likewise. It may open up somewhat down the line but I'm not going back for more.

Retasted 4/18/2017, it has opened up slightly and is showing some fresh red fruit and minerals but still little personality.
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2015 Château des Applanats Beaumes-de-Venise - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Beaumes-de-Venise (4/18/2017)
I don't know why I bought this bottle. The Applanats Beaumes-de-Venise is consistently heavy and alcoholic tasting and this 2015 is perhaps even more so than in most vintages.
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2015 Château de Coulaine Chinon - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (4/20/2017)
First of all, Chatters, no brett on this bottle (yours sounds flawed) but a rather perfumed note on the nose at first which disappeared later. Fuller bodied, I think, than the delicious 2014, but not so expressive at this stage. Well balanced with all the essential ingredients, albeit subdued, so perhaps a wine for a longer haul. Good.
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2011 Château Grand Moulin Corbières Boutenac - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Corbières (4/21/2017)
Made from Carignan and Mourvèdre, this Corbières Boutenac is very enjoyable with medium/full body, plenty of red fruit with a raspberry and varnish tinge, discreet vanilla patina, a little Mediterranean spice and nice tannic backbone supporting a decently long finish. Good.
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Last edited by Tim York on Sun May 21, 2017 1:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: WTN: Norman PN, Talbot 89,Rauzan-S 95,Saumur Insolite...

by David M. Bueker » Fri May 19, 2017 8:30 am

2008 is a reasonably high acid year for Ruwer wines, so no shock the Grunhaus shows drier.

I used to drink that Marcillac (other vintages) at a little bistro outside of Paris. Always a joy with a meal.
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Patchen Markell

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Re: WTN: Norman PN, Talbot 89,Rauzan-S 95,Saumur Insolite...

by Patchen Markell » Sat May 20, 2017 7:47 am

I hate to question your new appreciation of 2013 dry Loire Chenin, but that Roches Neuves sure looks like a 2012 in the photo!
cheers, Patchen
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Re: WTN: Norman PN, Talbot 89,Rauzan-S 95,Saumur Insolite...

by Tim York » Sun May 21, 2017 1:29 am

Patchen Markell wrote:I hate to question your new appreciation of 2013 dry Loire Chenin, but that Roches Neuves sure looks like a 2012 in the photo!


Congratulations on your sharp eyes, Patchen. The 2013 bottle was thrown out before I got to photo it. I've deleted the photo of 2012 provided by CT.
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Re: WTN: Norman PN, Talbot 89,Rauzan-S 95,Saumur Insolite...

by Patchen Markell » Sun May 21, 2017 9:40 am

Got it! My eyes may be sharp, but my powers of inference are a bit dull and rusty, apparently. :D

(And happy belated birthday!)
cheers, Patchen

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