WTN: Pasini San Giovanni 2012 Il Lugana

[Robin Garr]

I think my local retailer took advantage of a going-out-of-business sale ... this tasty Lugana, a few years behind the vintage, doesn't show up with any U.S. vendors on Wine-Searcher.com, and the boutique importer, run by an ex-sommelier at Felidia, seems to have lasted in business for only a year or two. Ah, well. It made a good quaff and a rare taste of an appellation that doesn't show up much around here.

Pasini San Giovanni 2012 Il Lugana ($10.99)

A bright golden color with a reddish-bronze hue signals the intense aromatics of the Turbiana grape variety (a.k.a. Trebbiano di Lugana or Verdicchio) in this wine from the southern shores of Lake Garda. It breathes a rich, grapey scent with overtones of melon and rising bread dough. It’s mouth-filling and ripe on the palate, peach and melon framed by crisp, food-friendly acidity that lasts in a very long finish. 12.5% alcohol. U.S. importer: A.I. Selections, NYC. (May 27, 2017)

FOOD MATCH: The winery recommends serving it as an aperitif or with fish, crustaceans or seafood. It was fine with a light summer dinner of mini crab cakes and avocado salad.

WHEN TO DRINK: On the one hand, Lugano lasts for a startling long time for a white. I’ve enjoyed 20-year old Lugano from other producers at the winery with great enjoyment. On the other, this bottle is already showing signs of oxidation, so I’m not sure how much more would be gained from long cellaring.

VALUE:
My local $10 price is a fine value, and it matches the $10 average U.S. retail shown on Wine-Searcher.com.

WEB LINK
Here's a winery fact sheet on Il Lugano.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
The free search on Wine-Searcher.com shows only a few sources, all in Europe. Wine lovers in Europe can also buy it direct from the winery for € 9,50 per bottle in minimum lots of six bottles.