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WTN: Loire night at Left Bank in West Village, NYC

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Loire night at Left Bank in West Village, NYC

by Dale Williams » Tue May 23, 2017 1:41 pm

Ramon organized a Loire dinner, and a nice group of 6 gathered at Left Bank in the West Village.
Service was friendly and efficient

We started with some whites (and a couple of salumi/cheese plates)

2006 Pascal Cotat “Les Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Ripe and full, grapefruit and lemon peel, but really about the wet rocks. A-/B+

2008 Chidaine “Le Bouchet” Vouvray
I’m a Chidaine fan but not sure I’ve run across this bottling before. I’d call it on borderline between sec-tendre and demi-sec. Ripe apples, pineapple, a little floral. B

My starter was highlight of meal- grilled octopus w/fennel, artichoke & aioli

2010 Huet Petillant Vouvray
Brisk and frisky, apples and quince, just a hint of sourdough, ready to go. B+

2000 Ch. De Hureau “Lisagathe” Saumur-Champigny
Still some good red fruit, some cocoa, but comes across as a little flat. A couple times I thought I got a hint of corkiness on the palate, but not there on nose, which for me is much more sensitive to TCA, so don’t think it was corked. B-

1985 Breton “Perrieres” Bourgueil
I double-decanted in afternoon, some green tobacco leaf aromas immediately convinced me this would not be a wine to convince a Loire-red-hater (and indeed I think our waiter didn’t care for). Raspberry and cassis, earth, a greenness that I found pleasant in a raw tobacco/ herbal way, but one person found asparagusy. B+/A-

We shared two orders of pasta for a little taste- I especially liked the gnocchi with fiddleheads, but the tagliatelle with (a very light) Bolognese was good too.

1989 Olga Raffault “Les Picasses” Chinon
This can be variable but this was a good bottle. Black cherry, smoke, coffee, and leather, rustic but I enjoy. B+

1990 Olga Raffault “Les Picasses” Chinon
Riper but not roasted, just a hint of barnyard, still rustic but more polished/smoother than the 1989. B+

For my main I had roast chicken with ramps and potatoes

2007 Rougeard “Les Clos” Saumur-Champigny

Lovely wine, darker fruit framed with cigarbox and an almost Rhone-y smoked meat, full and long. A-

2007 Rougeard “Les Poyeaux” Saumur-Champigny
Smoky, pure, refined, with cassis, black cherry, and sandalwood. A-

2014 Fosse-Seche “Eolithe” Saumur
Apparently billed in a retail offer as a Rougeard slayer, so served blind next to them. Tough duty. This was a really nice young Cab Franc - spicy, full, and fresh. B+

On to some dessert wines
1997 Jo Pithon Coteaux du Layon
Very dark color, apricot and orange peel, the least Chenin-y of the group, tastes like Sauternes laced with toffee. B

1998 Baumard Quarts de Chaume
Much lighter color, tropical, good acids. B+/B

1997 Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume (500 ml)
Also dark, marmalade and wax, a wooly note, but could use more acid. B

Fun night with an excellent crowd

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Joe Moryl

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Re: WTN: Loire night at Left Bank in West Village, NYC

by Joe Moryl » Tue May 23, 2017 2:12 pm

Recently tasted the 2014 Fosse-Seche Arcane Saumur (Chenin) and it was a standout in a lineup of white Loires. I never heard of them before, but maybe a producer to keep an eye on. Rougeard has become crazy expensive, so potential alternatives are welcome.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Loire night at Left Bank in West Village, NYC

by David M. Bueker » Tue May 23, 2017 4:08 pm

Glad your 1990 Raffault showed well. I have opened 3 bottles over the years, and they all smelled like a horse stall in July.
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