WTN: Rossese

Ka' Mancine 2015 Rossese di Dolceacqua, "Beragna" (Liguria). $26.00. The paradigm of a straightforward weeknight Italian red, with brisk, unadulterated red and blue fruit and a little earth; the edges turn inward at the end and the wine tails off somewhat quickly, but it's tasty and refreshing with dinner. It's a little more expensive than, say, Chianti Classicos that might play a comparable role in the repertoire, but you don't see a lot of Ligurian reds on the shelves, and I suspect production is a lot smaller here than in Toscana, so I was very happy to find this one -- indeed, it makes me think I might go back for another bottle, and make some cioppino to go with it.

Ka' Mancine 2015 Rossese di Dolceacqua, "Beragna" (Liguria). $26.00. The paradigm of a straightforward weeknight Italian red, with brisk, unadulterated red and blue fruit and a little earth; the edges turn inward at the end and the wine tails off somewhat quickly, but it's tasty and refreshing with dinner. It's a little more expensive than, say, Chianti Classicos that might play a comparable role in the repertoire, but you don't see a lot of Ligurian reds on the shelves, and I suspect production is a lot smaller here than in Toscana, so I was very happy to find this one -- indeed, it makes me think I might go back for another bottle, and make some cioppino to go with it.

Yup...Ligurian Rossese is one of my favorite Italian reds; bright/brisk drinkable red. Alas, you don't seen them very much.

The good news (I guess) is that Rossese Bianco is now at FPS in quarantine and will be released in Calif in
a few yrs. I've never seen a Rossese Bianco from Liguria though.
Tom

Hmmm, Wikipedia says it's the same as Grillo and implies it's only called Rossese Bianco in Liguria? I dunno, you're the ampelographer around here. I've had a couple of Sicilian Grillos, but I don't remember thinking they were terribly exciting. Maybe I'd feel differently if I'd had them in Sicily!

Meanwhile, I see that Rossese di Dolceacqua is the same grape as Tibouren in France*, of which I've had a couple lately (red and rosé). In fact, the reps for Clos Cibonne seem to be working overtime in Chicago -- not only did I see their wines in one shop and on two restaurant wine lists after being totally unfamiliar with them before 2017, I know at least one Chicago somm visited Clos Cibonne earlier this month.

*Tibouren in Tiburon, on the other hand, sounds like my cuppa cappucino.

Hmmm, Wikipedia says it's the same as Grillo and implies it's only called Rossese Bianco in Liguria? I dunno, you're the ampelographer around here. I've had a couple of Sicilian Grillos, but I don't remember thinking they were terribly exciting. Maybe I'd feel differently if I'd had them in Sicily!

Meanwhile, I see that Rossese di Dolceacqua is the same grape as Tibouren in France*, of which I've had a couple lately (red and rosé). In fact, the reps for Clos Cibonne seem to be working overtime in Chicago -- not only did I see their wines in one shop and on two restaurant wine lists after being totally unfamiliar with them before 2017, I know at least one Chicago somm visited Clos Cibonne earlier this month.

*Tibouren in Tiburon, on the other hand, sounds like my cuppa cappucino.

Yup, Patchen....Grillo is supposedly the same thing. The 2-3 Grillos I've had from Sicily have been underwhelming.
But, like Vermentino from Sardinia vs. Liguria (Pigato), I would expect more from Ligurian Grillo/RossesseBianco.
I've had several of the French Tibouren and thought them rather good...but not as bright/lively as Rossese from Liquria,
Tom

Meanwhile, I see that Rossese di Dolceacqua is the same grape as Tibouren in France*, of which I've had a couple lately (red and rosé). In fact, the reps for Clos Cibonne seem to be working overtime in Chicago --

I think I quite enjoyed that Tibouren once. Very savory and delicious!

Hmmm, Wikipedia says it's the same as Grillo and implies it's only called Rossese Bianco in Liguria? I dunno, you're the ampelographer around here. I've had a couple of Sicilian Grillos, but I don't remember thinking they were terribly exciting. Maybe I'd feel differently if I'd had them in Sicily!

Meanwhile, I see that Rossese di Dolceacqua is the same grape as Tibouren in France*, of which I've had a couple lately (red and rosé). In fact, the reps for Clos Cibonne seem to be working overtime in Chicago -- not only did I see their wines in one shop and on two restaurant wine lists after being totally unfamiliar with them before 2017, I know at least one Chicago somm visited Clos Cibonne earlier this month.

*Tibouren in Tiburon, on the other hand, sounds like my cuppa cappucino.

Yup, Patchen....Grillo is supposedly the same thing. The 2-3 Grillos I've had from Sicily have been underwhelming.
But, like Vermentino from Sardinia vs. Liguria (Pigato), I would expect more from Ligurian Grillo/RossesseBianco.
I've had several of the French Tibouren and thought them rather good...but not as bright/lively as Rossese from Liquria,
Tom

Yeah, I would have to echo Tom's thoughts. If these are the same grapes as the more ubiquitously grown ones, what makes them taste (so much) better in Liguria? Soil-to-glass-transfer indeed!

Ka' Mancine 2015 Rossese di Dolceacqua, "Beragna" (Liguria). $26.00. The paradigm of a straightforward weeknight Italian red, with brisk, unadulterated red and blue fruit and a little earth; the edges turn inward at the end and the wine tails off somewhat quickly, but it's tasty and refreshing with dinner. It's a little more expensive than, say, Chianti Classicos that might play a comparable role in the repertoire, but you don't see a lot of Ligurian reds on the shelves, and I suspect production is a lot smaller here than in Toscana, so I was very happy to find this one -- indeed, it makes me think I might go back for another bottle, and make some cioppino to go with it.

I am glad you liked the wine, Patchen. I do too. Production is tiny, the Beragna vineyard was planted (ungrafted) in 1872, very steep terraced vineyard. (I import Ka'Mancine for my market.)

1872! Remarkable!

I'm not sure if this bottle had your strip on it, Oliver, and it's recycled now; but it came from Eataly Chicago, for whatever that's worth. In any event, thanks for bringing wines like these to the US!