Yesterday I took the train up to Croton for part 2 of a big look at the wines of Domaine Francois Cotat. 13 intrepid wine geeks (mostly NYC area, but one had driven from Ontario).John had set up 2 tables, with a nice spread of cheeses and bread (including a great sourdough that a neighbor had made that day). Also some mousse, and I brought some charcuterie (lonza, pastirma, salami, headcheese) as well.
As people gathered we tried some bubblies
1998 Huet Brut Petillant Vouvray
Fresh, apple and dough, nice citrus kick. I’m shocked when told vintage as I drank all mine years ago and thought mature, but this is apparently a new release. B+/B
2009 Pol Roger Brut Champagne
Pear, brioche, and a little smoky note, elegant and defined. Fresh acids, lively. B+/A-
2009 Francis Boulard “Les Rachais” Champagne
Others liked more than me. I think this is non-dosage, and it comes across as too austere/severe for me. Those who love the style will probably like better. Nice bones underneath, though. B-
After that we moved to the Sancerre blancs. A great selection, curated by Sasha and John, in flights of 2 or 3. These were from the collection of SFJoe, so a bittersweet edge to a great event.
Flight #1- this flight was comparatively awkward
2010 Francois Cotat Les Monts Damnes Sancerre
Lemon and lemon pith, minerally, but tight on palate. B
2010 Francois Cotat Les Culs de Beaujeu Sancerre
Some thought bitter, but I enjoyed though in a grumpy stage. Nice wine waiting to get out. B/B+
2010 Francois Cotat La Grande Cote Sancerre
Ripest, some RS, soft, a little heat. B-
Flight #2
2009 Francois Cotat Les Monts Damnes Sancerre
Mineral, lemon, slate I like except for a little heat (15%abv) B/B+
2009 Francois Cotat La Grande Cote Sancerre
Honey and grapefruit, a bit blowsy, least attractive for the younger wines to me, though some feel it will come into balance with time. B-/C+
Delia had made some nice savory pastries (spinach and mushroom, the spinach ones were basically spanakopita- very tasty)
Flight #3- ah, this is more like it
2008 Francois Cotat Les Culs de Beaujeu Sancerre
Slightly reduced at first, blows off/opens up, large framed but graceful. Apple and orange zest, long minerally finish. A-
2007 Francois Cotat Les Culs de Beaujeu Sancerre
Fresh and chalky, good length. A-/B+
Flight #4
2007 Francois Cotat Les Monts Damnes Sancerre
Great, smoke and wax over white fruits, floral. A-
2007 Francois Cotat La Grande Cote Sancerre
Lemon, honey, waxy honeycomb. Tasty. A-/B+
Flight #5- ripeness showing again
2006 Francois Cotat Les Monts Damnes Sancerre
Lightly corked
2006 Francois Cotat Les Culs de Beaujeu Sancerre
Some heat, a little honey and wax, good core though. B
2006 Francois Cotat La Grande Cote Sancerre
Again some heat, but that’s only thing I can read, my note says something like espresso, which would be a weird descriptor for Sancerre and I’m sure that isn’t it. Expansive? B anyway
Flight #6 - this was rough (as expected)
2003 Francois Cotat Les Monts Damnes Sancerre
This was the drinkable one to me (others disagreed). Fresca, herbs, but a little short B-
2003 Francois Cotat Les Culs de Beaujeu Sancerre
This had some spritz (secondary fermentation?), overripe melon, clunky. Like someone poured vinho verde into a fat sweet Chard. C+/C
2003 Francois Cotat La Grande Cote Sancerre
Whoa, this was unpleasant. Tasted like fruit cocktail (canned) that had been opened and left in a hot kitchen for a week. D
John decided this called for a Champagne intermezzo
NV Henri Giraud “Code Noir” Champagne
This this is BdN. Tart but heavy, others liked more. B-
NV Henri Giraud’s “Fut de Chene”Champagne
Woody, apple and pear fruit, vanilla. People who liked oaked Champagne will like more. More experienced people predicted it would absorb the oak with time, but not my preferred style. But well done. B
Flight #7- a nice view (the ‘02s) as to what the ripe vintage Cotats can turn into
2002 Francois Cotat Les Monts Damnes (Sancerre not listed, denied appellation)
Just a touch of sugar remaining, wax and apple, mature. B/B+
2002 Francois Cotat Les Culs de Beaujeu (Sancerre not listed, denied appellation)
Snappy, pretty, honey and citrus, long. A-/B+
2000 Francois Cotat Les Monts Damnes Sancerre
Great showing from an (I think) unheralded vintage. Young, wax and honey, fresh fruit. A-
On to the roses. John served a chicken and sausage stew that went beautifully (not what I would have thought of, but it worked)
Flight #8
2011 Francois Cotat Chavignol Sancerre Rose
Floral, ripe, berries. B+
2010 Francois Cotat Chavignol Sancerre Rose
Ripe, strawberry and herb, citrus. B
2009 Francois Cotat Chavignol Sancerre Rose
Dusty, floral, soft for now. B
Flight #9
2005 Francois Cotat Chavignol Rose
Sprightly, ripe (some found hot, I didn’t), chalky minerality, long. A-
2001 Francois Cotat Chavignol Rose
Classic, elegant and long, very fresh at 16! A-/B+
Flight #10
1996 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes Cuvee Speciale”
Sec-tendre, great nervy acids, lovely with the sugar almost all absorbed. A-/B+
Fun night. Clear lesson- either buy F. Cotat in leaner years, and/or buy ripe years and put away for 15 years.
Night wasn’t quite over, the bonus wines
1970 Sterling Cabernet Sauvignon
Red fruited, herbs tangy acids, some thought simple but I liked, with some air it added some smoky notes. Solid old fashioned CalCab. B+
1974 Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon
Blacker fruit, but nose has a weird funky note that doesn’t come across to me as TCA but better noses declare it corked.
1993 Huet “Cuvee Constance” Vouvray
This is a rarity (apparently released in UK, then domaine decided not Constance quality, so rest released as Le Haut Lieu 1er Trie). Thought a good fit for a crowd of Loire fans. Definitely not the richness/sweetness of other Constances, but very tasty- electric acids, honey and lemon, flower and soil notes. Very fun. B+/A-
Fun night, long night, very nice to have Betsy come pick me up. Kudos to John and Sasha for organizing, and to a fun crew for thoughtful comments (often disagreeing!) and good company
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.