As you may know, Finland isn’t exactly a wine country although, as in most places, there are a few enthusiasts trying to make wine. Alcoholic drink retailing is in the hands of a state owned monopoly called Alko. Independent wine importing firms exist but must sell retail through Alko. The rest of their range and, according to Otto the most adventurous part, is sold through restaurants and wine bars with their inevitable mark-ups.
We were confined the Alko’s offerings. Coming from France, this was a welcome opportunity to branch out into non-French wines and Alko offers a fair range from most important wine growing countries. Apart from Champagne and some trophy wines, I thought the French selection uninteresting with, for example, only one red from the Loire on offer according to their website. Availability differs from branch to branch; the widest selections I saw were at a branch near the Finnish parliament (an ugly Stalinist style building) and at the prestigious city centre Stockmann store.
Prices are high. The cheapest wine which tempted me cost €13/14. For French wines, where I can compare, most were between 30 to 80% dearer than I would expect to pay in France and I got the feeling that for Italians, etc. the same was true.
Compared with most European capitals, Helsinki is a very recent city and, as far as I could see, there were few buildings which pre-dated the 19th century. Some of the 20th and 21st century architecture, however, manages to combine functionality with elegance. One big charm of the city is the way in which nature, in the form of inlets from the Baltic and tongues of forest, mingles into the urban tissue. Within about 50 metres of my son’s apartment was the entrance of a forest where one can walk, run or cycle for hours.
Here are notes on the wines consumed.
2012 Château de Haute-Serre Cahors - France, Southwest France, Cahors (7/2/2017)
Disappointingly oaky and international and overpriced at CDG airport shop at €23. Colour less black than much Cahors. The oak wafted out of the glass on first sniff. Quite full bodied palate with some nice round fruit and decent acidity but oak patina and nothing that said Cahors or even Malbec. Only fair.
2016 M. Chapoutier Côtes du Rhône Belleruche - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (7/2/2017)
Served warmer than ideal but still enjoyable with its soft round brambly S.Rhone fruit and enough acidity and grip for balance. Good.
2013 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (7/3/2017)
Surprisingly light and transparent in colour and medium bodied at most but delicious with bright red fruit, minerals, nice tangy acidity and sufficient backbone and length. The overall effect is moreish and elegant. Very good.
2014 Château Haut-Monplaisir Cahors Tradition - France, Southwest France, Cahors (7/4/2017)
Another Cahors a bit lacking in tarry brooding typicity but showing attractively fresh red fruit, minerals, lively acidity and, unlike the Haute-Serre, absence of obtrusive oak. Good.
2015 Quinta do Ameal Loureiro Vinho Verde - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde (7/5/2017)
Deliciously medium/light with delicate citrus infused fruit, minerals and crisp acidity together with a slightly grapey and honeyed undertow. Very good.
2014 Tobía Graciano Rioja - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja (7/5/2017)
There is an unusual but attractive aromatic and flavour profile from this monovarietal Graciano Rioja. Anise and liquorice notes are mixed in with some bright sour cherry infused fruit and fresh acidity on a medium + body with decent backbone. Not for every day but better than standard Rioja blends when they are disfigured by excessive oak. Good +.
2014 Fontanafredda Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (7/6/2017)
Easier drinking and much more sweetly and graciously fruited than wines of similar youth from "important " Nebbiolo using appellations showing just a hint of tar and orange on its finish and good acidity and enough backbone for balance. Good.
2016 Roberto Anselmi Bianco San Vincenzo Veneto IGT - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT (7/7/2017)
Agreeably easy drinking and slightly creamily fruited white with enough acidity for freshness. Quite good.
2015 Neethlingshof Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Franc - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch (7/8/2017)
Sound wine with pleasant fruit and fair acidity and structure but lacking complexity and personality. Fair.
2014 Alois Kracher Blend No.3 - Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee (7/7/2017)
Given Kracher´s reputation, I found this blend of Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch and St.Laurent disappointingly inexpressive. There was an unexpected darkness of fruit and a slightly bitter finish which cloyed. My son says that about an hour after I had left, the last glass has opened up somewhat. Fair.
2015 Symington Douro Altano - Portugal, Douro (7/8/2017)
Fuller bodied, warmer flavoured, less Atlantic and more Mediterranean than I recall from previous experience, it showed dark sweet complexioned fruit, some depth, herbs and an oily rather porty complexity and finish. Good.
2014 Sepp Moser Grüner Veltliner Reserve Rohrendorf Gebling 1 - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal (7/8/2017)
Attractive dry but not bone dry and medium bodied GV with fresh white fruit, some spice, lively minerals, fresh acidity and some grip on the finish. Good.
Posted from CellarTracker