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WTN: All Things Loire

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WTN: All Things Loire

by Jenise » Wed Aug 09, 2017 3:51 pm

The Dorks of York got together last night to taste All Things Loire. It was an unusually large group consisting of the wine buyers for the two Co-ops, the wine dept managers from two Haggen stores and our new Whole Foods, three distributors, the Fine Wine Buyer for wine.com (yes, THAT wine.com), me and one other civilian enthusiast, and a few significant others. The tasting was outside and mostly in the dark, so few of my notes include comments on color except when I picked up the flashlight to look at the old pineau d'anuis.

First out, two sparklers.

2014 François Pinon Vouvray Pétillant Brut Chenin Blanc
Janice's. Rich light golden color. Apple and yellow plum fruit, nice champagne-like yeastiness and good body. Terrific QPR for $21. Hope I can get to ____ today before everyone else to buy the last bottle. :)

NV Domaine de Saint-Just Crémant de Loire Rosé Blend
Mark's. 50/50 blend of Cab Sauv and Cab Franc. Very dry and dusty from the Cab Sauv. Beguiling.

Then the still whites:

2015 Cave de Saumur Saumur Blanc Les Pouches Chenin Blanc
Brent's. Nose is flowers and citronella, palate has pear and apple fruit. Lots of flavor, drinks well, great QPR for $11.

2015 Paul et Jean-Marc Pastou Sancerre La Côte de Sury Sauvignon Blanc
Caitlyn's. Muscatty nose with canned peach. Similar on the palate, balanced and delightfully different for a Sancerre--seemed more likely to be Vouvray. I would buy this.

2015 Domaine Riffault Sancerre Cortem à bâtis Sauvignon Blanc
Bart's. Not as minerally as he expected it to be, but otherwise a very pleasant and easygoing Sancerre.

2016 Domaine des Aubuisières Vouvray Cuvée de Silex Chenin Blanc
Tim's. Nervy acidity and minerality. Sweet white nectarine with tarragon notes. Quite attractive but probably even better in a year when the sweet fruit has a chance to pull back a bit.

2014 Domaine Masson-Blondelet Pouilly-Fumé Les Angelots Sauvignon Blanc
Mine. Complex panoply of white flowers, white and yellow fruit, and other perfumes from nature. Balanced and mouthfilling but not over the top. A showstopper at this tasting--white of the night.

2015 Domaine Etienne Daulny Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc
Chimo's. Minerally, slatey, some grapefruit but otherwise the palate's on the bland side--possibly a bit dumb at the moment.

2016 Orr Wines Chenin Blanc Old Vines Columbia Valley
Vic's. A fascinating ringer. I guessed that it was a Touraine SB because of the attractive vegetal nose and green beans, white pepper and cumin on the palate. Wouldn't mistake it for Loire Chenin, but like everyone else I liked it.

And finally the reds:

2016 Domaine des Pothiers Côte Roannaise Granit Rosé Gamay Saint Romain, Gamay
Tim's. Beautiful nose of roses and cream, gamay, perfectly balanced. Just loved it. Goes on my "to buy" list.

2015 Domaine les Pins Bourgueil Cuvée les Gravières Cabernet Franc
Janice's. Bubble gum nose, hint of VA. Ordinary.

2015 Joseph Gregoire Cabernet Franc Val de Loire
Brent's. Beware Whole Foods shoppers!!! This wretched, VA-ridden Cab Franc with the additional proprietary name "Lieubeau" has been chosen by the corporate buyer to appear in WF stores for $15, and there's nothing the knowledgeable wine stewards can do about it except NOT recommend it. Do not be tempted.

2013 Michael-David Vineyards Cabernet Franc Inkblot Lodi
Mine. Inserted into Loire tasting as a joke as both producer and origins promised a 180 degree oppositeness to what we hold dear about Loire Valley reds. It wasn't "Will they think it's a ringer?", just how fast they'd ask. And in that sense, it did not disappoint. Huge concentration, massive oak. But what did surprise is that the tannins were just as big and the wine wasn't at all jammy. Under other circumstances, I could actually drink this.

2015 Domaine de Nerleux Saumur-Champigny Clos des Chatains Cabernet Franc
Gabe's. Finally a Loire red that tastes like serious CF. Very good but very young with promise: sports some of that awkward-teenager bubble gum now. Would not touch another bottle before 2020.

2005 Patrice Colin Coteaux du Vendômois Les Vignes d'Emilien Colin Pineau d'Aunis
Mine--a cellar misplacement I didn't realize I had until I had Cellar Tracker show me all my Loire Valley stuff. (I had filed them on the bottom shelf of Rhones.) But it sure stumped the chumps. First whiff, and I heard "tequila!" and "agave!" from the other tasters. Spot on, because recent notes on Cellar Tracker all observed the same thing. Very evident, along with some complex floral and spice things on the palate. Color's a medium sunset red. A very likeable and cerebral wine--none of us have had an aged pineau d'aunis before.

2010 Château de Fosse-Seche Saumur Eolithe Cabernet Franc
Tim's. Drinks well with notes of red berry and tea. Holds back a bit on the entry but pays out on the finish. Can use more time.

Lastly, a sticky from me, purchased from a deceased member of the group to whom I made a deathbed promise that I would go to his store and buy all the remaining Beaujolais and this wine, as he loved them like children and feared no one would appreciate them:

2005 Château Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume Chenin Blanc
Mine. Powerful, concentrated, with caramel apple, spice and honey notes. Still youthful--and probably won't change much in the next 20 years. Outstanding.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: All Things Loire

by David M. Bueker » Wed Aug 09, 2017 5:41 pm

That's a big tasting.
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Jenise

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Re: WTN: All Things Loire

by Jenise » Wed Aug 09, 2017 5:51 pm

There's a core group of six of us who attend fairly reliably each month. Others are continually invited but not even seen once a year--somehow last night was that perfect storm in which they all showed up.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: All Things Loire

by Rahsaan » Wed Aug 09, 2017 8:32 pm

Nice theme!

Pinon is certainly a good place to look for QPR, and when they sing it can be such a QPR pleasure.

Pothiers can also be such good juicy earthy gamay.

And nice pull on the Pierre-Bise. Interesting to see how much longer it will go.
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Re: WTN: All Things Loire

by ChaimShraga » Thu Aug 10, 2017 8:57 am

I like how you blotted out the store name in the cause of self interest.
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Jenise

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Re: WTN: All Things Loire

by Jenise » Thu Aug 10, 2017 12:58 pm

ChaimShraga wrote:I like how you blotted out the store name in the cause of self interest.


On this forum, immaterial. But I wrote it to Cellar Tracker first--and there I could have competition. :)
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: All Things Loire

by Dale Williams » Thu Aug 10, 2017 9:13 pm

I really like the Pinon sparklers, you should try the non-dose!

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