WTN: a superior Guiberteau

Last night, home from a weekend of abstention, followed by endurance cycling in Wisconsin, followed by beer (what else?), we returned to wine by opening what turned out either to be a premoxed or a postoxed 2002 Brocard Chablis 1er Vaucoupin (I didn't have high hopes for this but it didn't seem in decline, it seemed to have joined the bleedin' choir invisible.) Quickly replaced with a Domaine Guiberteau 2014 Saumur Blanc, "Clos de Guichaux." ($35). I think this is the first vineyard-designated Guiberteau Chenin we've opened, after a few bottles of a couple different vintages of the basic Saumur blanc. Those wines, like the basic reds, have been good, sometimes very good, but I admit they haven't knocked my socks off (although they've rattled my teeth: that basic bottling seems to be a very stern wine when young). This Guichaux was a whole different story. Ripe red apple and pit fruit aroma already shading into chalky minerality and a touch of greenness on the nose, similar on the palate with intense interplay between the fruit and the minerals; but even more notable was the texture: this bottle had a perfect, satisfying balance between sharp acidic drive and some fullness or roundness that's totally absent from the basic wine, and which might be attributable to the fact that the single-vineyard wines are aged in (2-4 yo) barrels (I'm guessing fermented in barrel too but I'm not positive). I gather that that age range isn't necessarily technically "neutral," and there was indeed the barest hint of wood one the nose at first opening, but it was basically indiscernable thereafter. A real joy to drink. Another bottle or two like this and I'll be firmly convinced.

[Jenise]

We had an excellent Guiberteau cab franc last year--definitely worth your attention if you find one.

Indeed! I've also now had either two or three vintages of their basic Cab Franc -- I think 2015 and 2012 for sure, maybe a 2014 as well -- and I've bought (but haven't yet opened) some of the single-vineyard reds too, in small quantities (Les Motelles in particular). Liked the basic 2015; had a 2012 recently and it seemed a little shut down. But these, like the basic Chenin, seemed to me to be good QPR ($20ish) without necessarily being stunning wines; the Guichaux was gorgeous. If the single-vineyard reds are to the basic red as this is to the basic white, I'll be a very, very happy guy.

[Jenise]

I think you're going to be a very, very happy guy. The one red we had was the Motelles, btw.

I wish I liked Guiberteau's pricing as much as the wines

I don't know. So far, I've found the basic bottlings ($20ish) and this Guichaux (just under $35) to be good value or better. We'll see about the Arboises, Motelles, Brézé, and Carmes, which run $43-60; I can imagine thinking they're worth it, but, yeah, it's certainly a higher bar to clear. I suppose he's banking on the "still cheaper than Rougeard!" factor.