Lavinea Single Vineyard Wines, Elton Vineyard, Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon, 2014
The Gevrey-Chambertin was inescapably classic Bourgogne; the Felton Road was in a class by itself but still rang crystal-true with its cold-climate origins. The Lavinea Elton Vineyard is a flawless exemplar of its place. It contains all that admirers wish to find in a Willamette pinot noir: the beguiling soft charm of floral perfume and cherry fruit; the crisp, acidic cranberry-pomegranate tartness underneath; the supportive but never obtrusive tannins; and the discrete finish that never quite entirely fades away until you realize you can’t identify when the physical taste stopped and your memories took over.
For a first vintage release, this is impressive, and points directly to the potential of the Willamette Valley in years to come. As popular and successful as Oregon has become, this wine says “we ain’t seen nothin’ yet.”