I'd been very worried about this (I love LOVE the Gorge and many of the fantastic wineries there, it's too bad the wines don't get out of our area), and this information from the winemaker at Syncline is very comforting.
The Eagle creek fire has garnered a lot of attention and has been on the minds of every winemaker sourcing Columbia Gorge grapes. The fire started late Labor Day weekend, trapping about 140 hikers and launching the fire into the news. Hot, dry east wines quickly pushed the fire towards Portland and in the span of a day traveled about 15 miles. During this period many houses were evacuated and the fire moved to the top of the priority list as it threatened Portland’s drinking water. Luckily for us, during this intense period the smoke was pushed away from all the vineyards. West winds returned and we faced our first day of smoke, obliterating our views across the Columbia. Fortunately, the west wind blew most of the smoke south of the major grape growing areas, raining burned and intact fir needles in the upper Hood River Valley. With continued west wind the fire burned within 4 miles of orchards within Hood River valley. Throughout this 10 or so days, we had maybe a total of 15 hours of intense smoke, and many days of haze.
Concerned about smoke taint and knowing that it is only detectable once fermentation begins we undertook a super fun project. We harvested 1/4 ton mondeuse and gamay, destemmed it, and fermented it with native yeasts to both see if we could detect any smoke taint and to also make a super fun red pet nat. Since then we have harvested Gorge chardonnay and pinot noir for sparkling, Gorge Gamay, and Gorge Syrah. Not one fermentation is exhibiting any sign of smoke taint, however they all are ridiculously tasty.