"Introduction to Beaujolais" is what I named last month's neighborhood tasting. Very fitting for a tasting of ten Beaujolais of the quality I put together: four for the meet-and-greet hour, and six Cru's to sit down to. And I hoped to learn more than anyone, both in the research I had to do and the opportunity I've never had before to taste a handful of Cru level wines side by side. I opened all the wines at home 3 hours before the tasting, and the Cru's were served blind.
The intro wines:
2016 Marcel Lapierre Raisins Gaulois Vin de France
From a 3 liter bottle. If a wine can be happy then this is one of the happiest wines I've ever drunk. Exuberant fruit and acidity, dances in the mouth, serious fun. Closer to black fruit than red. Pure joy.
2017 Mommessin Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Gamay
Here's the perfect Nouveau for Nouveau haters like me. It's fresh and soft with pretty fruit that doesn't taste raw or like boiled bananas like the nasty DuBouef versions I remember first tasting in the 80's.
2015 Loic et Noel Bulliat Beaujolais-Villages Gamay
Pleasingly fresh and easy going. Doesn't compete with the crus but it's a good $11 wine.
2015 Domaine Dupeuble Pere et Fils Beaujolais Kermit Lynch Selections
Exceptional QPR at $14 locally. Mostly red fruit with some plummy elements, Cru-level substance, great body and finish. If you can find this, stock up.
Here are the Cru's, and of course we voted. However, my pouring squad blew it and grabbed the wrong bottles halfway through pouring, so the Roilette and Thivin service was completely screwed up. Some got one of each, some got two Thivins, and some probably got two Roilettes and we had no idea which was which though at the end of the night it was the Roilette we had leftover in excess. And wouldn't you know that was the one I'd LEAST wish to end up with. So anyway, in order of least popular to most (which the Thivin didn't deserve):
2016 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Gamay
Strong vinegary VA dominated the nose (and this was true of all six bottles we poured) and on the palate that bubble-gummy flavor of carbonic maceration. After a week on my counter, both elements got stronger. Otherwise, some violets but not enough to offset the other problems. Last place for all, and no wonder. $22
2016 Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly Gamay
Floral nose followed by lovely and earthy red and blue fruit with a velvetty texture and peppery, elegant finish. This was far more Fleurie-ish than the Fleurie in the line-up. Exceptional for the vintage--or at least it defied my lowered expectations for '16 vs. '15 and '14 (which I loved) based on conversations with local retailers. $27
2015 Michel Tête Saint-Amour Les Capitans Domaine du Clos du Fief Gamay
Seemed light and vegetal at first, but added red licorice, cinnamon and the classic Saint Amour peachiness before turning dark and brooding. By far the most structured and tannic of the six Crus we tasted and hardest to appreciate despite three hours of decanting. Wait 2-3 years for next bottle and hold thru 2027. $25
2015 Jean-Michel Dupré Régnié Haute Ronze Vieilles Vignes Gamay
Clean with cherry and floral nose, juicy on the palate. Lightest of the six Crus on the table with the softest tannins so it's the earliest 'drink by', and in fact I'd say it's at peak. Drink by 2020. $17
The following two shared a landslide with 91 pts each.
2015 Michel Tête Juliénas Domaine du Clos du Fief Cuvée Tradition Gamay
Initially blueberry, plum and mocha but with time lighter red fruits and buoyant acidity emerge. For whatever reason I've never been a Julienas fan but this wine corrected that. It was my favorite of the night. Oh, and a leftover bottle, half full, with just it's own cork in it sat on my kitchen counter for nine days. I had thought it was empty. I thought it would have to go into a vinegar batch, but no: it was more brilliant than ever. This wine is a fantastic cellar candidate. $23
2015 Vignobles Bulliat Morgon "Nature" Gamay
Dense plum and blueberry fruit, sweet and earthy, minerals come in later with herbs and the finish is elegant. A very accessible style of Gamay for the Bojo newbies without being simple. $20