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WTN: 97 Gravner, 02 Huet

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Patchen Markell

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WTN: 97 Gravner, 02 Huet

by Patchen Markell » Sun Dec 03, 2017 12:15 pm

Last night, with a friend visiting and a Nordic menu of juniper-laced apple soup; cod with fresh horseradish, beets, and potatoes; and apple-ginger kuchen:

Gravner 1997 DOC Collio Ribolla. From before the category of "orange wine" became a thing, and even a little before Gravner himself started using amphorae, this was the last of six bottles I procured from a couple of different sources in the very early 2000s, after having a bottle of this from the wine list at the now-departed Rose Pistola in San Francisco. It's been several years since the previous bottle, and I suspected this was likely to be on a downhill slope, maybe at the bottom of it. But while it doesn't have the vibrant energy and complexity it had in youth and middle age, this is still surprisingly good, better than the previous bottle. Burnished golden, modestly fresh and bright apply flavors accented with waxiness and some of the familiar complexity on the palate -- orange zest, saffron, spice. A fine way to go out!

Huet 2002 Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec. Seems to be an intact bottle, and a delicious one. Deep yellow; bright, vivid flavors; bright lemon and orange, honey, and a lot of length contributed by a still-firm mineral base. Still has plenty of time to go.
cheers, Patchen
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: 97 Gravner, 02 Huet

by David M. Bueker » Sun Dec 03, 2017 3:47 pm

Lucky you!
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