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Wed Mar 29, 2006 1:01 pm

WTN: Tiberio FonteCanale Trebbiano d'Abruzzo '15...(short/bo

by TomHill » Sun Dec 31, 2017 1:24 pm

Recently I reviewed this high-end Tiberio Trebbiano:
Tom wrote:3. Tiberio FonteCanale Dd'OP: Trebbiano d'Abruzzo (12.5%) 2015: color; rather toasty/pencilly/oak light grapefruity/citric slight stony/earthy rather dull nose; rather tart/tangy/citric/grapefruity fairly toasty/smokey/oak some stony/earthy flavor; med.long quite tart/tangy/citric light grapefruity/metallic fairly toasty/smokey/oak finish; a pretty dull white whose only redeeming feature is a bunch of new oak; a great example that you can make a silk purse from a sow's ear...NOT; you can put lipstick on a pig but, still, it's just a pig underneath; grossly overpriced at $47.50 (KK)

I was called to task by LeviDalton on my TN, who pointed out that there's not a splinter of oak at Tiberio, everything is done in SS. He suggested I might have got a bad btl and that I should give it another shot. So I tried Fri night:
1. Tiberio FonteCanale Dd'OP: Trebbiano d'Abruzzo (12.5%) 2015: Med.light gold color; rather stony/mineral/chalky/perfumed talc slight herbal/citric/orangey/grapefruity/spicy rather perfumed almost Chablis-like fairly complex quite attractive nose; quite tart/tangy rather citric/grapefruity slight herbal/spicy quite stony/mineral/chalky bit juicy/thirst-quenching bit complex attractive flavor; very long/lingering quite tart/acid/Chablis-like quite citric/grapefruity/lemony/spicy/bit herbal quite chalky/stony/mineral/steely somewhat saline/savory/thirst-quenching quite attractive finish; lots of stony/chalky character and a brisk acidity but a richness that prevents the wine from seeming eviscerated & green; quite an attractive white that needs food; a bit on the pricey side but the best Td'A that I can recall having; maybe you can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear, but you can make a perfectly good corduroy purse. $47.50 (KK)
A wee BloodyPulpit:
1. This btl was totally different from the one I had a week ago, where I was picking up a distinct oak signature. It's a total puzzle to me. Maybe I just happened to get the special btl that was intended to be sent to Monktown?? :-)
This is a very special expression of Td'A, a grape that normally makes rather dull whites (to my limited experience). It is from a 1.5 ha vnyd of 58 yr old vines, trained up on a pergola. ( Hence the pricing I suppose.
So thanks to Levi for encouraging me to give it a 2'nd try. Otherwise I would have totally blown off Tiberio. His comparison of it to a Cru Chablis is, I think, pretty close. That's the only other wine I can think of.

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