Mark hosted a lunch featuring Haut Bailly and Branaire Ducru* in honor of their recently departed owners, Robert Wilmers and Patrick Maroteaux. There was a nice assortment of cheeses (Morbier, st Nectaire, Cantal, and several others) , charcuterie (pates forestier and grandmere, pork rilletes, fiacco, pasthourma, lonza, etc) and loads of bread.
*as I’m going to refer to it, some years probably actually said Branaire (Duluc-Ducru)
As we gathering we tried the 2005 Vieux Chateau Certan (half bottle). Wonderful open nose with dark fruits, flowers, and cedar/spice, but quite shutdown on palate. But you could sense a great wine underneath. A potential
2008 Ch. Haut-Bailly
Bright and herbal, fresh acids, supple tannins, really nice wine that needs time. B+/A-
2003 Ch. Branaire-Ducru
Tannic, modest fruit wand what there is has a stewed edge, odd sharp finish that Mark thinks is acid additions. John: “drinking window 2017-2012?” C+
Stuart had made a lovely mushroom soup with black truffle
2000 Ch. Haut-Bailly
Nice balance, cool dark fruit, needs more length- hoping maybe a function of being shut down a bit. B+/B
1982 Ch. Branaire-Ducru
Lush plush mouthfeel, soft, plummy. Nice but pales next to flightmate. B/B+
1982 Ch. Haut-Bailly
Lovely showing- balanced, earthy, ferric. Great combo of old style Bordeaux and a ripe vintage. A-
While Stuart made the pasta, an intermezzo
1996 Dom Perignon
Great showing of a great wine. Fresh, bright acids, citrus and apple over bread dough, long and elegant. A-
Pasta with mushrooms,
1975 Ch. Branaire-Ducru
The dark side of ‘75, tannins are finally fading, but not as fast as the fruit. B-
1975 Domaine de Chevalier
Alas, corked.
Lamb with a berry sauce and mashed potatoes
1979 Ch. Leoville Las Cases
I’m generally a ‘79 fan, but this doesn’t ring my bells (or remind me of other ‘79s). Heavy and extracted, fairly low acid, clipped. B-
1970 Ch. Haut-Bailly
Lifted nose with caramel, this may have seen some warmth. Unrated
1959 Ch. Branaire-Ducru
This bottle was DOA, tired and maderized, hope my other shows better,
C-
With disappointing last flight, Mark got a bottle to blind us. John got Margaux immediately, someone got ‘70, so I guessed chateau based solely on knowing Mark. I really enjoyed the 1970 Ch. Giscours. Rd and black fruits, perfumed nose, resolved tannins. B+/A-
There was also a sherry from the early 19th century with an interesting back story (it traveled the world in a demijohn, only recently being bottled). Interesting if volatile nose with caramel, butterscotch, and wax, but on palate I found harsh and astringent. Maybe it needs time.
I also left before Mark opened a 19th century tawny during the playoff game.
Fun afternoon with good people.
That night Betsy made scallops in a basil cream sauce and risotto, I thought I was opening the
2007, but instead opened the 2014 Pepiere Clisson Muscadet. Young and a bit tight, you can sense the mineral core underneath, big and needs time,but I enjoyed. B+
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.