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TomHill

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WTN: Some New Whites....(long/boring)

by TomHill » Tue Jan 30, 2018 2:08 pm

We tasted last night (1/24/18) Some New Whites:
1. Weingut Mayer Wiener DAC: GemischterSatz Nussberg (13.5%) Wien/Pfarrplatz 2015: Light gold color w/ tiny
bubbles; very attractive floral/mango/peach blossom slight stony/chalky lovely nose; fairly tart/tannic/
citric bright/floral/mango/peach blossom slight white pepper very slight prickle pleasant flavor; very
long floral/GV-like/peach blossom bit tangy/citric slight stony/chalky finish; a pleasant enough GS but
just that. $22.00 (BWM)
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2. Christ Wiener DAC: GemischterSatz (12.0%; CarloHuberSlctns/Salisbury/CT) Wien 2014: Med.gold color w/ lots
of tiny bubbles; screw top pops on opening; fairly heavy/ripe/ bit botrytis (?)/late harvesty bit earthy
light floral bit pungent bit metallic/dishwater rather strange nose; very soft some CO2 rather earthy
somewhat late harvesty/ripe bit tangy/metallic rather strange flavor; soft med.short very ripe/late harvesty
some floral/grapey finish; a rather porky/overripe/strange GS and not very interesting. $24.00 (BWM)
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3. Wieninger Wiener DAC: Gemischter Satz Wiener Wein (trocken; 12.5%; http://www.WineBow.com) Wien 2015[/b]: Med.light
gold color; top popped on opening but no bubbles; lovely floral/mango/pineapple/spicy bit pepper/GV slight
stony attractive nose; soft fairly rich/lush strong floral/mango/pineapple bit GV/pepper slight stony
pleasant flavor; long some floral/mango/pineapple bit peppery bit stony finish; the best of a ho-hum set
of GS's; pleasant enough but just that. $29.00 (BWM)
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4. IngridGroiss DAC: Weinviertel; GrunerVeltliner Reserve In der Schablau (13%; http://www.Ingrid-Groiss.At;
CircoVino/Tuscon) Breiteneaida 2015
: Med.light gold color; beautiful very aromatic GV/white pepper/very
floral/spicy light mineral/stony lovely perfumed nose; fairly tart/tangy quite rich/lush very spicy/GV/
white pepper light stony/mineral/chalky classic Gruner flavor; very long/lingering quite rich/lush very
strong GV/white pepper/floral/very spicy light chalky/mineral beautiful balanced bit complex finish; a very
beautiful smaargd-level GV at a more than fair price. $36.00 (BWM)
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4a. Carlisle GrunerVeltliner SteinerVnyd/SonomaMtn/SonomaCnty (14.1%; 220 cs) Windsor 2013: Med.light gold
color; very strong GV/white pepper/floral slight toasty/pencilly/oak bit smokey very perfumed nose; soft
rich/lush strong GV/white pepper some toasty/oak/smokey fairly ripe flavor; very long/lingering strong
GV/white pepper/rather floral slight toasty/oak finish; speaks strongly of ripe GV but I don't recall the
oak being there before; one of the best Calif GV's. $38.25
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5. ArbeGarbe SonomaCnty WW (14%; 45% Catie'sCorner Malvasia/30% Tanya'sVnyd RibollaGialla/25%
PaganiRanch OV TocaiFriulano; http://www.ArbeGarbeWines.com) StHelena 2016
: Light gold color; very attractive
fragrant/Malvasia/floral/bit muscatty slight chalky/mineral rather spicy/bit pepper quite lovely nose; fairly
tart strong floral/Malvasia/bit muscat-like bit chalky/mineral slight peppery/RG more subtle some complex
flavor; very long/lingering lightly Malvasia/spicy/floral slight pepper/RG light chalky/stony some complex
finish; the other varieties cuts the intensity of the Malvasia and makes for a far more interesting wine;
as good as any Malvasia or blend you can find from Friuli; really lovely white blend. $30.00
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6. Benandants MalvasiaBianca Catie'sCornerVnyd/RRV (14%) 2016: Light gold color; very strong floral/Malvasia/
perfumed/fragrant slight muscatty very attractive nose; totally dry fairly tart very strong Malvasia/floral/
perfumed/spicy slight chalky flavor; very long floral/Malvasia/perfumey/bit spicy bit Grandma's cheap perfume
slight chalky finish; very strong Malvasia w/o straying into tutti-fruti/DollyParton territory; one of the best
Malvasias made in Calif but simpler than the blend. $40.00
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7. Primosic Malvasia IGT: Malvasia Istriana Venezia Giulia WW (13%; MorganImports/Chicago) Oslavia 2015: Med.light
gold color; rather earthy/stony/mineral lightly muscatty/floral slight metallic rather low-key/quiet nose;
bit soft light stony/mineral/earthy slight metallic/tangy light floral/Malvasia/muscatty flavor; med. soft
some Malvasia/floral/muscatty slight stony/mineral/chalky slightly rough/bitter finish; a rather low-key
pleasant Malvasia but just that; underwhelming. $19.00 (DiVino)
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8. Aurelien Chatagnier AC: Condrieu (14%; AurelienChatagnier@Free.Fr; ParisWineCompany.com; AnvilWine/
Denver) StPierre de Bouef 2015
: Med.gold color; very strong toasty/pencilly/oak strong peachy/Viog/spicy fairly
Condrieu nose; rather soft strong Viog/peach quite toasty/pencilly/oak attractive flavor; very long rather Viog/
peach/pear fairly strong toasty/pencilly/pak bit earthy some complex finish; good Condrieu/Viog fruit but
pretty slammed w/ oak; has LaDorian level of oak but not the underlying level of Condrieu fruit; bit pricey
for what it is. $56.00 (DiVino)
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9. Miani Bianco DOC: Friuli Colli Orientali (13%; Friulano/Malvasia/Ribolla; TheSortingTable/Napa) Buttrio
2014
: Med.light gold color; very strong flowery/spicy/TF slight Malvasia some subtle/well-integrated oak quite
perfumed complex beautiful nose; lightly tart rather rich/lush complex/balanced/seamless quite floral/TF light
Malvasia/RG/peppery rather complex flavor; very long/lingering strong floral/TF/bit peppery/RG light earthy/chalky
slight well-integrated/pencilly/oak complex/seamless finish; a beautiful Friuli white blend but pretty badly
pricey for what it is. $119.00 (BWM)
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10. Foradori Fuoripista PinotGrigio IGT: Vigneti delle Dolomiti (13%; Louis/DressnerSlctn;
http://www.ElisabettaForadori.com) Mezzolombardo/Trentino 2016
: Deep gold/orange/burnished bronze almost rose color;
some phenolic/resiny very fragrant spicy/rose petal very floral/perfumed/PG slight smokey very complex beautiful
nose; rather tart some light/phenolic/resiny very strong perfumed/PG/floral/rose petal spicy/cardamon quite exotic
very rich/lush complex flavor w/ very slight tannic bite; very long/lingering light phenolic/resiny intense
perfumed/floral/rose petal/PG slight smokey slight earthy/spicy/cardamon very exotic/complex finish w/ very slight
tannic bite; very light phenolic character w/ loads of perfumed PG fruit; a stunning expression of PG; fairly
priced at $60.00 (BWM)
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11. Dom.Barou Marsanne Vin de Pays des CollinesRhodaniennes (14%; Vin Biologique; ParisWineCo for AnvilWineCo;
10-12 hrs skin maceration; 80% whole cluster fermentation) Emmanuel Barou/Charnas 2015
: Light gold color; rather
fragrant/floral/appley/Marsanne clea[/b]n light earthy quite attractive nose; lightly tart floral/fragrant/appley/Marsanne
slight tangy/metallic slight honeyed/earthy/honeycomb flavor; very long tart/tangy rather strong appley/Marsanne/
floral/apple blossom slight earthy/honeycomb finish; a very attractive Marsanne at a great price but not up to the
Qupe Marsanne; quite clean & well-made w/ no funk you'd expect from a natural wine. $18.00 (DiVino)
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12. Stephane Montez du Monteillet LeBlanc d'en face IGP: CollinesRhodaniennes (12.5%; http://www.Montez.Fr;
60% Cugnette/40% Chardonnay; Weygandt-Metzler/Unionville/PA) Chavanay 2015
: Light gold color; beautiful floral/fragrant/
peach blossom almost Condrieu/Viog/perfumed/peach bit melony/ripe very fragrant/spicy light mineral/stony lovely
aromatic nose; lightly tart bright/peach/pear/Viog-like floral some spicy lovely flavor; very long/lingering slight
tangy/metallic quite perfumed/peach/Condrieu-like some floral/peach blossom finish; way richer than a Savoie Jacquere
and more like a mid-range $60 Condrieu; quite a lovely white at a more than fair price. $25.00 (BWM)
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The usual BloodyPulpit:
1. Malvasia: Most of the Malvasia planted in Calif is Malvasia Bianco. It tends to have an intense floral
character that borders on Muscat. I've grown to love the Malvasia from Friuli (and Croatia) as it shows less
tutti-frutti character more subtle mineral elements. It was a Malvasia that originated down on the Istrian
Peninsula. To my knowledge, there is none, alas, in Calif. 'Tis a pity.
This Malvasia Istriana was rather underwhelming, not a particularly good example. I thought the ArbeGarbe
was a far/far better expression of Malvasia Istriana. And their Benandants Malvasia avoids the tutti-frutti
character of most Calif Malvasias. I somewhat preferred the ArbeGarbe because of its more restrained Malvasia
character.
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2. Miani: This is the wnry of EnzoPontoni, who makes about 600 cs a yr. He is regarded by many as the best winemaker
in Friuli and has quite a cult following. This Bianco was one of the best Friuli blends I can recall having;
extremely well-made and absolutely seamless. A superbly crafted white. That said, I'm not much of a cultist
and probably won't bother to buy a Miani again.
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3. Foradori: Elisabetta is regarded by most, including myself, as the master of Teroldego. She also makes some
outstanding whites as well. This PG was fermented/aged in clay tinajas (of Jose Padilla, one of the best)
for 8 months. Grown bio-dynamically. One of the best Italian PG's that I've had. I was expecting much stronger
phenolic/resiny quality but that component was very subtle, with huge PG fruit.
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4. Cugnette: A rarely planted grape in Condrieu and NRhone. It is the same variety as Jacquere in the Savoie.
This Montez was much richer/lusher than you'd expect for Jacquere, probably because of the Chard.
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5. IngridGroiss: I'm a huge fan of the wines from IngridGroiss in the Weinviertel in NAustria. Her basic GV and GS
are my go-to whites when I want a good experience from Austria at a more than fair price. Alas, we don't get
much/any of her higher-level wines here in NM, so I have to get them up in Boulder. This GV blows away a
recent Veyder-Malberg at more than twice the price.
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6. ArbeGarbe: This is the wnry of LeteziaPaulette and EnricoBertoz. He's the winemaker at FloraSprings. The Benandants
is a second label (but not 2'nd wine) they oft use. They were both born/raised in Friuli and make (mostly) wines
in the style of Friuli. Enrico makes a Charbono that's as good as any Charbono made in Calif. I would love to
see what he can do w/ Refosco or Schioppettino. Someday/maybe.
Tom

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