WTN: Lots of Louis Boillot

Two plus years ago, we had this local Louis Boillot dinner: http://forums.wineloverspage.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=54570&p=440354&hilit=Boillot#p440354

Last night, the public convened again at Rue Cler for another chance.

We were greeted by NV Aubry Champagne Brut, which was a truly lovely way to settle into the evening.

We started the main event with Volnay "Les Grands Poisots" 2014 and 2015. The 2014 was a wonderful revelation. I remember drinking the 2014 Evocelles (tasty and fun, at first) and the 2014 Brouillards (brooding and difficult) over a year ago but then deciding that they were getting awkward and needed to rest. No such concerns here, the fragrant and crisp but also relatively deep and expressive 2014 Grands Poisots was a true joy for everyone at our end of the table. Of course the 2015 was lovely, bigger, sunnier, less put together. Although it joined itself together with a bit of air and was fun to drink in its own way.

The Volnay "Les Brouillards" 2005 and 2015 was a huge contrast. The 2005 was dark, roasty and stacked, but at the same time when juxtaposed with the 2015, the 2005 had more evolution and was hinting at silk. The 2015 was much more unformed but the fun fruit and fragrance were there, so presumably one would be confident in buying.

At this point we switched to Gevrey-Chambertin 2015 and Gevrey-Chambertin "Evocelles" 2008. I don't remember much about the '15 Gevrey-Chambertin but the '08 Evocelles was much loved by our host. After later discussion we agreed that this wine touches him more than some of the rest of us, but I could still appreciate the bright fresh zippy Burgundy fruit, even if I don't fall in love.

We ended with the Pommard "Les Fremiers" 2008 and the Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Champonnets" 2008. Both nice wines but even if the Fremiers was not stereotypical Pommard, the combination of '08 and the end of the meal made it feel a bit hard and I probably didn't pay the proper attention. The Champonnets was easier to like, a bit rounder, plenty of lovely Boillot fragrance, although still in a restrained 08 mode and one wonders what more may develop with time.

All in all, a more-than-fine way to Tuesday!

Thanks.
I've liked the Louis Boillot wines I have had, but seldom see. Last time I got a local offer I hesitated too long.
Married to Ghislaine Barthod, I believe?

Thanks.
I've liked the Louis Boillot wines I have had, but seldom see. Last time I got a local offer I hesitated too long.
Married to Ghislaine Barthod, I believe?

Yes, married to Barthod and apparently benefits from exposure to her. (Who wouldn't!)

As I said last night, the wines are not 'amazing' 'blue chip-level' Burgundies. They are very good and a particular elegant and fresh style, but I wouldn't necessarily expect everyone to love them. (I think a bunch of folks at the dinner were trying them for the first time).

But, they are well-priced in the grand scheme of things (60-90 for the 1er crus) and I'm lucky that Nathan also has a soft spot for the wines, so he makes sure to bring in as much as possible to NC, which means I have bought a bunch these past few years!

[David M. Bueker]

Thanks. Really appreciate the data point on the ‘05 Brouillards.

Thanks. Really appreciate the data point on the ‘05 Brouillards.

Do you have some of his 05 Brouillards? Have you been tracking it? Tough to make grand pronouncements because we only had one glass and no idea how it might have evolved with more air, etc. But at least that glass was drinkable and enjoyable if also still in motion and probably best left for those with any patience.

I have a few of his 05 Gevreys (Cherbaudes and Champonnets), can't remember if I've had any over the past few years. But I have so few 05 Burgundies in general, and somewhat mixed experiences with the ones I've opened in recent years, that I'm still holding on as a general principle.

[David M. Bueker]

Oops on me. I have 2005 Voillot Brouillards, not Boillot Brouillards.

Interestingly, Voillot is one of the few other producers I own in 2005 (Boillot, D'Angerville and Bize being the other three).

But I don't think I've had any 05 Voillot since mid 2016. I had some great experiences with the 05 Volnay VV, but then some mixed experiences, and a cranky 05 Champans, so I decided to stop.

For me, I don't think there's any downside to keeping my measly stash longer. Some people report nice wines, but I think they tend to have deeper collections!

[David M. Bueker]

I have checked in on a few 2005 Burgundies, mostly Bourgogne and Village wines. They are not ready. Some are enjoyable, but still youthful, and not showing meaningful development.