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WTN: Where the Boise are

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WTN: Where the Boise are

by Jenise » Thu Aug 23, 2018 10:44 am

No, not about Idaho wines, just the name of one of the wines I thought particularly special. The Dorks met at my house, theme Open White. Multiple wines from 9 participants: three retailers, two distributors, two civilians and two spouses. All wines blind. I love these "Open" tastings. Everybody's so creative about sourcing superb and often offbeat wines.

NV i Clivi Bianco RBL Collio Ribolla Gialla
I opened with this offering from importer and forum friend Oliver McCrum, and a perfect opener it was. Very pale. Delicate nose of clean laundry and white flowers, on the palate some citrus. Cashmere texture to the fine bubble, very refreshing. Only 11% alcohol.

NV Roland Van Hecke Cremant de Borgogne
Apple cider nose followed by oranges, a hint of spice and almond paste on the finish. Distinctive; good quality for $22 on the shelf.

2016 Structure Cellars Roussanne Olsen Vineyard Yakima Valley
Mine. Roussanne is one of my fave white grapes and I couldn't pass up a chance to try this offering by a new small producer. Only 125 cases were made. Floral nose with melon, loquat and orchard fruit; impressive finesse and elegance for $25. A great discovery, and I'll be going back for more. Best in a burgundy bowl, btw.

2016 Château Grand Boise Côtes de Provence Rolle, Vermentino
This is where the Boise are! Very pale. Momentarily sweet entry but dry mid palate and finish with an attractive hint of petrol. Minerally with good acidity and demure fruit. More complex than this sounds, and one of my top wines of the night. A new wine in U.S. markets, repped by Cavatappi in my area.

2016 Rôtie Cellars Grenache Blanc Columbia Valley
Blind tasted. Stunning. Understated pear and melon flavors blend seamlessly with generous minerality and acidity--tastes more European than domestic in all the good ways.

2017 Bodega Garzón Albariño Maldonado, Uruguay
Big bodied and spicy with some old lady scents. Showed more like a dialed-back Viognier or Gewurztraminer than any Albarino I've had from Spain due to that spice and weight. Very interesting, but I wouldn't be likely to buy it.

2015 Holm Oak Pinot Gris Tamar Valley, Tasmania
Mine. The color of water. Guesses were all over: Gruner Veltliner and Gewurz were ruled out immediately as was most of the planet for origins. No one guessed Alsace though the homage was more evident after we'd sat with the wine a bit. Very rich and seemingly off-dry on the midpalate with a friskiness from partial wild ferment, white grapefruit, coconut water and lychee after which it finishes fairly dry.

2017 Lubanzi Wines Chenin Blanc Swartland So Africa
Pale straw greenish gold. Didn't shout 'chenin', but it was balanced, bright and intriguing with lime, tangerine and green melon. Nice wine.

2016 Shooting Star (Jed Steele) Aligoté Washington
Very pale. White fruit and herbs with good body. From WA vineyards and astonishing QPR for $10.

2015 Sclavus Winery Robola Vino di Sasso Kephalonia, Greece
Tiny bit of spritz here, unexpected but actually a plus for texture. Rich flavors of yellow plums, canned pear juice, and quince.

2016 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Vintner's Reserve California
A few days ago a friend opined that KJ chard is so good any group of connoisseurs would praise it. When I ran into it while shopping for food that day, it occurred to me that it would be fun to throw it in with this group just to see what expert palates would objectively think when the only influence was who brought it. First guess from Tim: "It's a good quality Cal Chard. Is it Arcadian?" I honestly don't believe that it merited that comparison, but let the record show that it didn't immediately read 'cheap American fluff' as one might expect it to have done.

2014 François Cazin (Le Petit Chambord) Cour-Cheverny Romorantin
Fresh and minerally with good white orchard fruit and racy acidity. No sign of age or fading, has the goods for further cellaring.

2016 Upchurch Sauvignon Blanc Southwest Facing Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley
DeLille winemaker Chris Upchurch's first edition of Sauvignon Blanc. Gooseberry, grass and lime but all integrated, in concert and not too forward, with peppery notes sneaking in on the finish. Spent 18 months in cement eggs--14.2% abv but it doesn't show. Very sophisticated and instantly at the top of WA Sauv B's.

2016 Adega Familiar Eladio Piñeiro Rías Baixas Envidia Cochina Tete Cuvee Albariño
A very lean wine. The label warns that "slow is beautiful" and it might simply not be ready for prime time. Or so I wrote--next night, the leftovers were a bit oxidated.

2013 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Sekt Brut Kamptaler Terrassen
Very pale and fetching with notes of apple, peas and underripe pineapple. Shows great now but should hold well for some time.

2000 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Viña Gravonia Viura, Macabeo
Mine. Very rich, nutty and complex but the modest oxidation was polarizing for our group. Most liked it better than I did.

There was another domestic SB and a Sancerre that I somehow failed to note the names, so no notes. And then:

2016 Qupé Roussanne Hillside Estate Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley
Surprisingly golden with heavy, mature flavors. This is not what I want or expect from roussanne.

2013 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Mosel Saar Ruwer
Been a long time since I tasted a young Auslese. Very enjoyable with white flowers, lychee, white nectarine and lime peel. Much more to come.

2002 Château d'Yquem Sauternes Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend
On a lark, I waltzed off to the cellar (oh those dangerous larks!) and brought back this to share with a little round of Epoisses.
Splendid blend of orange and lemon marmalades with ginger and orange blossom honey. A lighter botrytis style, which nicely lets the acidity dance a bit. Excellent.

And a bonus, since the region and vintage are the same as the d'Yquem, this wine I opened last weekend:

2002 Château Rieussec Sauternes Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend
Not advanced, not dull, just very sound for producer and vintage. Heavier, more honeyed than the d'Yquem.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Bob Parsons Alberta

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Re: WTN: Where the Boise are

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Thu Aug 23, 2018 11:04 am

Being a white wine lover, some great notes. Like that Grenache Blanc.
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Re: WTN: Where the Boise are

by David M. Bueker » Thu Aug 23, 2018 12:12 pm

I wonder if the Qupé saw some heat in getting to you.

Funny that you open a 2013 Prüm Auslese within days of me opening a 2014.
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Re: WTN: Where the Boise are

by Jenise » Thu Aug 23, 2018 3:05 pm

No idea re the Qupe. It didn't taste cooked; it just tasted ten years old. Now sure how you get there in two years. The Prum was great; it's a good idea now and then to taste these things young. I'd admittedly lost my sense of what a young Auslese should be.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Where the Boise are

by Rahsaan » Thu Aug 23, 2018 8:38 pm

Jenise wrote:No idea re the Qupe. It didn't taste cooked; it just tasted ten years old. Now sure how you get there in two years. .


Wouldn't heat damage be a prime explanation for advanced aging?
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Re: WTN: Where the Boise are

by Rahsaan » Thu Aug 23, 2018 8:41 pm

Jenise wrote:
2016 Structure Cellars Roussanne Olsen Vineyard Yakima Valley
Mine. Roussanne is one of my fave white grapes...


Strong words. I can really enjoy Roussanne wines, but it seems like the drop-off is steep from great to so-so and boring. I wouldn't think to rank it among the top grapes, but maybe I just don't have enough exposure.
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Re: WTN: Where the Boise are

by Jenise » Thu Aug 23, 2018 8:50 pm

Rahsaan wrote:
Jenise wrote:No idea re the Qupe. It didn't taste cooked; it just tasted ten years old. Now sure how you get there in two years. .


Wouldn't heat damage be a prime explanation for advanced aging?


I suppose it could. I just don't have experience with that--not without a cooked flavor, cooked and old not tasting exactly alike.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Where the Boise are

by Jenise » Thu Aug 23, 2018 8:52 pm

Rahsaan wrote:
Jenise wrote:
2016 Structure Cellars Roussanne Olsen Vineyard Yakima Valley
Mine. Roussanne is one of my fave white grapes...


Strong words. I can really enjoy Roussanne wines, but it seems like the drop-off is steep from great to so-so and boring. I wouldn't think to rank it among the top grapes, but maybe I just don't have enough exposure.


I probably don't have enough experience with it to be so unequivocal--it's not all that common as a stand-alone grape. But it does well in our climate and I've had some lovely examples here. This one was especially so, obviously.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Where the Boise are

by kasey.dubler » Fri Aug 24, 2018 10:09 am

Sounds like a great tasting! Rotie Cellars is one of my favorite coming out of WA, but I haven't tried the Grenache Blanc I will have to see if I can find one!
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Re: WTN: Where the Boise are

by Jenise » Fri Aug 24, 2018 1:47 pm

Kasey, it was, you shoulda been there! But yeah, the Rotie was impressive. I've had a tendency to think I don't like grenache blanc because until lately, most or even all GB's I've had seemed soft/ripe or even intentionally overendowed with RS and so I've avoided it. But a zippy little unoaked, high-acid Cameron Hughes GB from Santa Barbara fruit recently showed me a whole new side of the grape, as did this more sophisticated version albeit in a different way.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov

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