WTN: Höhle Moly

[David M. Bueker]

2002 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe (7/22/2019)
Settling into an early maturity, this has developed significant bottle aged complexity, and also a texture that is both suave and energetic. There’s a golden edge to the fruit, partly honeyed and partly a bit of toasted spice. It’s wholly integrated, white light, that is clearly a sum of all its colors.

Sounds great. Your cellar is a constant source of jealousy!! (Good for you....)

I probably missed the chatter, but I remember you used to be a big purchaser of Dönnhoff. Is that still the case in recent years? Do you buy different wines from them? (I guess from a recent conversation you're not a big fan of GGs in general, but some people love the Dönnhoff versions)

[David M. Bueker]

I buy less than I used to, but the old buying levels were unsustainable in terms of cellar space, funds and availability. Dönnhoff is still the largest holding in my cellar, and by a wide margin.

Recent years have seen a focus on 2 or 3 wines per vintage, normally the Kirschheck Spätlese, Hermannshöhle Spätlese, and often a third, normally Auslese wine. The Kirschheck is Laura's favorite, so it's always on the list. This year it's the Kirschheck, the Leistenberg Kabinett (as I am nearly out of Dönnhoff Kabinett), and the Weissburgunder. 2018 is the first vintage where Terry has offered the Weissburgunder. There's a story behind that.

As for the GGs, I own a fair number from 2003 (inaugural Hermannshöhle GG) to 2012. I stopped buying due to accumulating inventory. I need to drink up some of the earlier wines. I just never seem to get around to them, instead focusing on Austrians and Trimbach for my dry Riesling. I have also found recent vintages to be rather austere, when I tasted them at the Theise event in New York. In general with GGs, I don't see the point, given that Trimbach CFE and many fine Austrian Rieslings are cheaper than the top German wines. It's not that Germans don't compete on quality. They don't compete on price.

Good on you for going with the Weissburgunder. I never have a need for such wines but they are perfectly lovely and I'm sure only deepen your appreciation of the estate.

And I can see how you would slow down purchasing of the wines over time. That often happens but I was wondering if there was any additional trend of being more interested in other producers, evolving tastes, etc.

And yes, I agree that German GGs are not priced to move in the US. I don't think I've ever even bought any in the US. I mainly focus on drinking them in Germany and then bringing a few back. But why are the prices so high? Outside of a few unobtainable Kellers, most top German GGs are pretty fairly priced in the country - 40-60euros normal retail. So does that mean Austrian wines should be cheaper than that in the country? (I have not spent much time buying wine in Austria)

[David M. Bueker]

No evolving tastes or other interests pushing me away from Dönnhoff. Just a lot in the cellar.

On the dry end of the spectrum, I can buy a Dönnhoff GG for about $65, where a Hirsch Heilgienstein Riesling runs me about $45. That's a large enough difference to make me take notice.

On the dry end of the spectrum, I can buy a Dönnhoff GG for about $65...

Presumably not the HH, but still a fair price. I think normal retail in Germany is 35ish euros for Krötenpfuhl, 50ish euros for HH, and Dellchen inbetween.

...where a Hirsch Heilgienstein Riesling runs me about $45. That's a large enough difference to make me take notice.

Ok, but Hirsch is very good value and there is not exactly a wide range of top Austrian riesling for under $50 in the US. Very good Austrian riesling yes, but I usually see the top vineyards and top producers for more.

Either way, at the end of the day there is a lot of good wine and we have lots of choices!

[David M. Bueker]

I think you underestimate the current quality level at Hirsch. In that you are not alone.

Austria seems to still have the veneer of "top producers are the only really good ones" that used to plague Germany.

I think you underestimate the current quality level at Hirsch. In that you are not alone..

Fair enough. My memory is of solid but not particularly exciting wines. But they are available in NC and will happily explore further when I get back.

I've enjoyed Hirsch, but haven't bought one in ages. Sounds like I should
For '15 I paid $50 for Dellchen GG and $58 for HH, so not that huge a difference from EU.

[David M. Bueker]

I have opened a couple of older Hirsch wines in the last several months, and been blown away.

The 2017s were delicious at the Theise portfolio in June, especially the Renner Grüner Veltliner and Heiligenstein Riesling.

I stopped buying GG's because i just don't like them, and they're expensive. Even if they were cheaper, I'd still buy Austrians.

The local Willi Schaefer importer told me he makes small volume of GG because he needs to in order to keep the VDP membership, but doesn't push too hard to sell it because he doesn't like the style.

I never bothered to check the veracity of that story and I do trust the importer. I really hope it's true because it's a great story and allows me to say "I told you so".

[David M. Bueker]

Well about 6 years ago (maybe 5 maybe 7) I asked Christoph Schaefer if he liked GG. He said he liked "some GG, but not from Mosel."

I stopped buying GG's because i just don't like them, and they're expensive. Even if they were cheaper, I'd still buy Austrians..

I am curious how a riesling lover (assuming you don't mean the non-riesling GGs) can categorically dislike the whole country of Germany? So many different regions, so many producer styles, and so close to Austria (this is not Burgundy vs California Pinot). Am not sure the dividing line is Germany vs. Austria as much as variation in terroir/style within the countries.