2001 Edmunds St. John, Syrah Wylie-Fneaughty:
A big wine but one with focus; olive, cherry and dark fruits on the nose with a bit of smoke in the background; the palate echoes those flavors but shuts down at mid-palate – its like you’re walking down a long hallway and all of a sudden, the lights go out; you know there’s lots of hallway left but since its dark, you put your hands out in front of you as you start to walk again and immediately touch a wall – the finish is solid and lasting. I think this needs several years, yet its complex, delineated and concentrated even now. Served with swordfish with olive compote; this was a marvelous pairing. 14.4% alcohol, about $30 and I’d buy it again at that price.
1996 Trimbach, Riesling Clos Ste. Hune:
Expansive riesling nose with a resinous/oxidative component; very intense and remarkably concentrated in the mouth, lots of white fruit flavors, firm, bright acidity, ripe but not even a hint of RS, very precise and just plain stunning length. It’s still youthful and coiled but it has good viscosity on the palate and the intensity of the flavors is almost painful. A marvelous accompaniment with garlic and sorrel soup and swordfish salad. 13% alcohol, about $85 on sale (and why any retailer with even an ounce of common sense puts Ste. Hune on sale is beyond me) and I would buy it again at that price.
2004 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino:
Mineral driven, 100% garganega from the Soave region, this is clean, ripe and bright with good depth of flavor and nice length. Beautiful with tomato and mozzarella salad. Imported by Palm Bay Imports and about $17; I’d buy it again at that price.
2002 Barthod, Bourgogne Les Bon Bâtons:
Very silky wine that is still showing young and fresh and maybe a little closed; but charming, dry, fruit driven Burgundy that has good length and went well will mushroom pasta. Imported by Rosenthal and about $22; I’d buy it again at that price.
2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie:
My benchmark for this vintage in Fleurie and the Beaujolais from this vintage I most enjoy; very rich and full with some floral notes in the nose and excellent depth on the palate. I heard someone say this was sweet but I can’t find that; I do get lots of dry extract and a ripe flavor profile but I also get nuance and breed – I just adore this wine. Marvelous with (or without) assorted cheeses. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $20; as good a twenty dollar wine as I’ve ever had.
2004 Bruno Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba:
I have written a number of notes on this wine; suffice it to say that it is a balanced, lighter weight nebbiolo that is ripe and has good length. It is however, starting to close down as the tannins become more prominent and the fruit recedes. Give it a couple of years in the cellar and it should be wonderful. Excellent with pasta with olive tapenade. Imported by Lascascio/Winebow and about $25; I’ll buy more this evening.
Best, Jim