WTN: CFE, Suenen, Sociando, Bea, Burgs, Hatzidakis

Chicken thighs with chickpeas and spinach
2008 Simon Bize “Aux Vergelesses” Savigny-les-Beaune 1er
This was pretty tight at first , but after an hour or so of air it really showed well. Red and black raspberries, citrus zest, and a touch of coffee. Supple tannins, juicy acids, and a long minerally finish. Young, fresh, zesty and delicious. A-

Tuna steaks with a tomato/olive/caper sauce, quinoa/rice, broccoli rabe
1998 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso
More floral than fruity, somewhat lifted nose, resolved tannin, some oxidative notes. Not dead but maybe passing its due date. B-

No wine Friday with Asian grilled pork tenderloin, brown rice with furikake, bok choy

Roasted branzino with ladolemono sauce, broccoli with mustard and vinegar, quinoa
2018 Hatzidakis Skitali Assyrtiko (Santorini) has citrus, green apple, and the slightest hint of new mown hay. Crisp, saline meet oystershell finish. B+/A-

Sunday had some friends over, along with one’s sister who was visiting from France and Cape Verde. We had a grand old time.

Crudite (basil and chipotle/bean dips)
NV Suenen C+C Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne (2017 base, 6/20 disgorgement).
Snappy, fresh and bright, with crisp pear fruit , herbs, and warm bread. Long chalky finish. B+

Oysters with mignonette or lemon
2021 Piuze Terroir de Fye Chablis
Good with oysters, riper more forward styled, apples and white flowers, chalk on finish. B

Pawpaw/rum ham (from Smoking goose), asparagus, and melon on bed of arugula (Hilary has a pawpaw tree and is a big advocate, so I felt I needed to serve to her)
2008 Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile Riesling
Was unsure how this would be drinking, but blossomed with air, lovely in a bone dry wet rock kind of style. Crisp minerality, some petrol topnotes, not fruit driven but there’s some lemon and dry peach. Fun. A-/B+

Flannery ribeyes, turnip/parsley root gratin, Swiss Chard
1986 Sociando-Mallet
Some of that ‘86 burliness, cassis and smoked meats, cigarbox/cedar. Loads of life left. B+


We finished with cheese- Isle of Mull, Stilton, and a perfectly ripe Reblochon Wanda had brought from France, and a chocolate cake. Fun fun night.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

2008 Simon Bize “Aux Vergelesses” Savigny-les-Beaune 1er
This was pretty tight at first , but after an hour or so of air it really showed well. Red and black raspberries, citrus zest, and a touch of coffee. Supple tannins, juicy acids, and a long minerally finish. Young, fresh, zesty and delicious. A-

Nice. Always good to hear about 2008 showing well, especially one that is not necessarily known for being luscious/forward.

[David M. Bueker]

I was reading earlier, and it only just struck me that I figured the 2008 Bize was likely getting into its maturity window, but the 2008 Trimbach was still way too young.

I wanted dry Riesling with the ham, knew Alex and Wanda's grandfather was from Alsace, but this was only dry CFE I had at home- 01 definitely shows RS (well, 89 VT is pretty dry but saving last bottle). I was very happy with how open it actually was, and really thought perfect with dish.

Thanks for the note - maybe time to start in on my 86 Sociando (it was hard as nails when young).

I think most 86s have turned that corner (with some exceptions like LLC which is still pretty hard). Even some wines that remain burly (Gruaud) are not hard. Unlike say '75 where some Medocs just never made it around the bend.