Dom. Robert Chevillon 2002 Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru "Vaucrains."
Here, I'll make this a Tour de France post: back in the sweet spot of the early aughts, when I was newly employed as an assistant professor, my income sprinted forward with a surprising burst of power that briefly allowed me to overtake Chevillon down in the valley, but on the climb up the Rue de Chaux past the 1er cru vineyards, Chevillon's prices took off like a rocket and left me holding only a small stash of 2001 and 2002s (and a couple of 2010s, but let's not ruin the metaphor). Last night, in a celebratory mood despite the state of the world, I opened one.... and it was a really beautiful bottle. Expressive nose from the outset, at the intersection of red meat, pit fruit (think black cherries), and flowers. Lush and velvety texture, very long, sustained by just the right bit of tannic edge. What's impressive here is the combination of density and forthcomingness: you don't sense it's holding anything back, just that it has slightly more to offer than you can quite wrap your senses around. This was well worth the two decade wait.