2021 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion (France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan)
So I opened this out of intrigue, given recent acclaim from some friends, but also given some curious things happening at the estate that I've been reading about. Apparently LCHB is now using a lot more Cabernet Franc in its blend (reviews indicate 40%, with 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Merlot), but also using some whole cluster fermentation and raising some of the wine in amphorae. So I was curious about this, though it's not cheap - this vintage is selling a little over $100 at nearby retailers. But hey, I love Cab Franc and I love Graves, so here goes...
First impressions are not great as a sweet oaky perfume dominates the aromatics. But with an hour in the decanter it transforms and shows a side of Bordeaux I've not seen too often. The oak integrates into the background of the wine, playing a supporting role around bright red and black fruit, and it develops a fresh herbal/forestal scent with a perfumed intensity and sweeter violet-like notes adding a more exotic element. The aromatics honestly remind me of Clos Rougeard's Poyeux bottling. There's plenty of fine grained tannin beneath that softens with air, but a lot of the structure also comes from a spine of acidity that keeps this feeling very fresh and lively. It's a medium weight wine that feels a perhaps a bit short on the back end, and my overall impression remains closer to Rougeard/other high end Saumur than anything I've had from the left bank or Pessac (it doesn't show any of the signature gravelly/smoky Graves elements, but perhaps those will emerge with time). Still, the whole package is incredibly compelling, and really enjoyable. I'll be very curious to see how this ages, but if nothing else, I may buy a few more (and explore some other vintages) as a cheaper alternative to Rougeard, which was one of my favorite wines until prices just went nuts and I stopped trying to buy it.
It does seem a little bizarre to be buying Bordeaux as a value proposition instead of Loire CF, but I'm also rediscovering Bordeaux as a spot for great value in wine right now.