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WTN: Wine in rough times

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Jenise

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WTN: Wine in rough times

by Jenise » Tue Apr 15, 2025 11:46 am

These wines were opened over the saddest two weeks of my life:

On April 2nd, my brother came over to keep me company while I watched over my dying husband who had eaten a good breakfast and lunch but refused dinner. Possibly, I understood, the beginning of the end. I opened this 2022 Morét-Brealynn Pinot Noir Lakeview Vineyard Russian River Valley pinot noir. If you don't know, young Moret was trained by, and just married, Adam Lee of Siduri fame. It's not profound, but bright and lively like Moret herself. She's getting a lot of great press about her wines.

A few days later, we were on vigil--Bob was going to be moved to Hospice House next morning if he survived the night. Friends came over in the afternoon with pizza to keep me company. I opened this 2010 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Chianti Classico DOCG Sangiovese which under other circumstances would have had me swooning. As it was, I merely noted that it had the perfect tertiary tones of an even older Chianti.

Those friends left and my cabernet-loving brother took over. He brought yet more food so I grabbed this 2012 LaStella Cabernet Sauvignon La Sophia Okanagan Valley VQA out of the cellar. It was all blackberries and pine needles, which would make me suspect that American oak was involved though I wouldn't have expected anything but FO from this particular high-end OK winery. Some secondary nuances, no tertiary. We PnP'd but other bottles will reward further cellaring.

Time passed, and so did my husband.

The day of, friends pulled me over to their house for dinner. I wasn't hungry--felt like I never would be again--but nonetheless I grabbed this out of the cellar to take along because it was standing up on the counter and I was too numb with my broken heart to question it. Unfortunately I only remembered when I went to log this out of CT afterward that I'd been disappointed by a previous bottle, maybe a year and half earlier. I wouldn't have chosen it had I remembered it as risky, but as it is I was just un-impressed all over again with the 2013 Le Vieux Pin Syrah Cuvée Violette Okanagan Valley VQA. It's a winery I otherwise admire, but the fruit on this one's fading and it's a bit parchy. From their passive cellar my friends opened a 2017 Bouchard Pere & Fils Bourgogne blanc, which was also a bit tired. Just as well, not a day for rejoicing anyway.

I deliberately spent the next night on my own to mourn alone with my cat and begin the process of adapting to our changed circumstances. It was scary; I wrapped myself in thick blankets and drank tea. I had been surrounded by people and my own desperate need to hang onto life for many days and feared getting too used to that. As it is, I felt painfully vulnerable without Bob here to protect me and slept with some lights on.

The next day Gabe and Vicki dragged me away for lunch at a local distillery where friend Dan, a professional cheesemaker, was waiting with a Gerard Bertrands Picpoul already open. I don't think it was vintage dated, $33 off the wine list. Weirdly deep golden color for the grape even in the distillery's dim light, the result we surmised of being both extracted and older than any Picpoul we'd ever had. One of those "gee I didn't think you could do that" things, and while we regretted that it wasn't the fresh young thing we'd have preferred we actually enjoyed it.

That night other friends had me over for dinner and opened a 2012 MTR Productions Memory Found Walla Walla Valley Syrah. This wine is premium-level side hustle by Matt Reynvaan who makes the wines for his family's winery, Reynvaan, one of my favorites. It was decanted three hours earlier by my hosts and poured side by side with a younger Reynvaan. This was easily the sweeter, plusher and more full-bodied of the two wines since it's from a riper vintage. It showed massive blueberries which tempered the usual Rocks funk and a bucket of green olive notes out in front of silky tannins and a long, smooth finish. Then we got around to the 2017 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Syrah In the Rocks from Walla Walla Valley. Uncorked but not decanted, it was drier and more reticent than the other wine--until the dry-rubbed roasted ribs came to the table. Now it was the ITR's turn to shine, with expressive, old-school black cherry fruit, earth, green olives and white pepper with ample resonance. Very Northern Rhonish and still on its way up; outstanding. My hosts preferred the MTR, but this was easily my favorite of the two.

Sunday was spent watching Rory win The Masters with my friend John. He was making a paella and favors white wine over red, so I brought along a 2021 Muga Rioja Blanco, a wine with body and complexity that amazed for $17 and made it one of the greatest deck wines ever. I bought a case back then, only two bottles are left--great QPR then and now.

Yesterday, Monday, Hannah, a fellow member of my Dork group, came over to spend the afternoon and brought lunch. She opened a 2017 Künstler Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Kabinett trocken. Nicely aged, good depth, lengthy finish and its dryness makes it work with our greek salad lunch, though riesling is otherwise not an intuitive match for briney flavors. Been awhile since I've had a Rheingau wine but a touching reminder of many great bottles of Gunderloch that Bob and I shared at Seattle's Wild Ginger in the long ago past. We'd fly down from Alaska where we lived at the time and head straight to the restaurant from the airport. We'd call ahead to ensure they had a bottle waiting, and they'd fire an order for Dungeness Crab in Burmese Curry the second we walked in. Good times.

And now it's today, Tuesday. Friends are making a wine pick-up-and-lunch run to Anacortes and dragging me along. My cellar, which peaked at almost 2200 bottles before Bob was diagnosed in 2020, is now nicely pared down to 1,111 bottles. Much as I love shopping for wine, knowing that my beloved Bob and I didn't have a future to look forward to together changed everything and I quit buying for the most part. I won't be shopping today either.

But I'll look.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Wine in rough times

by Dale Williams » Tue Apr 15, 2025 12:14 pm

Rough times indeed Jenise. Our hearts are with you, and glad you have some friends/family support.
I don't really know these wines (except Muga and Felsina in other vintages) but nice notes. I know when each of my parents died I found comfort in the routine of taking notes, I hope you do as well.
Nothing can compare to losing your soulmate.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Wine in rough times

by David M. Bueker » Tue Apr 15, 2025 1:42 pm

Interesting set of wines Jenise. Glad to see Kunstler as they are a very fine producer who doesn’t get much notice.

The one time many years ago that Laura and I visited Seattle we went to Wild Ginger.

And again - my condolences.
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Re: WTN: Wine in rough times

by Robin Garr » Tue Apr 15, 2025 1:59 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:The one time many years ago that Laura and I visited Seattle we went to Wild Ginger.

:shock:
Mary and I were married in Seattle in August 1989, and while we were there, our foodie friends Victoria and Joaquin took us to the then brand-new Wild Ginger mear Pike Place Market. This is a strange convergence of Wind Gingering on the forum.

Condolences again, Jenise. Thanks for the beautiful reminiscences about you and your wine journey through this so sad time.
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Re: WTN: Wine in rough times

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Apr 15, 2025 10:58 pm

My thoughts are with you Jenise.
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Re: WTN: Wine in rough times

by Jenise » Wed Apr 16, 2025 9:23 am

Thanks, everyone.

And re Wild Ginger? I found out about it on one of the early iterations of this forum, from a Seattle-based Alaska Airlines Pilot named Sid Graham. The restaurant is still around though it moved to a new location and the food is not as exciting as it used to be.

Btw, I bought five bottles on our shopping trip. :)
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Wine in rough times

by Mark Lipton » Wed Apr 16, 2025 1:32 pm

Another Wild Ginger fan here. I'm so glad to read about the care your friends have taken during this most difficult of times. My thoughts are with you, Jenise, as you start to navigate these new, uncharted waters. (I've slowed down my wine purchasing, too, mostly in response to my increasing age and Jean's intentional limiting of her own consumption. Champagne and Beaujolais are most of my recent purchases)
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Re: WTN: Wine in rough times

by Salil » Wed Apr 16, 2025 10:25 pm

Sincere condolences Jenise. But glad you have such friends/support around you at this time.
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Re: WTN: Wine in rough times

by Jenise » Thu Apr 17, 2025 12:14 pm

Dale Williams wrote: I know when each of my parents died I found comfort in the routine of taking notes, I hope you do as well.
Nothing can compare to losing your soulmate.


No, it can't.

As for the notes, hadn't used pen and paper but I am a born recordkeeper. When I was very young, like grade school, I was quite a reader and checked out 4-6 books from the library each week. I then found it hard to return the meaningful ones without some evidence that they had been in my life, so I began noting each on a 3x5 card that I filed in a recipe box. The way I write wine notes in my head and eventually download them here or to CT is born of the same compulsion. A lifelong habit that even the greatest grief I've ever known can't, apparently, disable. Writing this tasting note was catharctic.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Wine in rough times

by John S » Thu Apr 17, 2025 3:47 pm

Glad to hear you are surrounded by friends, Jenise.
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Tim York

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Re: WTN: Wine in rough times

by Tim York » Sat Apr 19, 2025 12:29 pm

Jenise, I am so sorry to hear of your loss. Thanks for finding the inclination and time to post these interesting notes. I sounds as if you are getting good support from friends and family. Please accept my condolences.
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Jenise

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Re: WTN: Wine in rough times

by Jenise » Sat Apr 19, 2025 2:36 pm

Thank you, Tim.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov

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