1993 Tokaji Aszu-Eszencia, Royal Tokaji
An alarmingly dark-brown color, as is often the case with very highly botrytized wines. No sign of oxidation in the aroma, but as one would expect there is a lot of botrytis there, but also a lot of beautiful furmint fruit. In the mouth, the wine is thick and unctuous--like glycerin. The flavors follow the aroma--heavy botrytis in balance with furmint flavors. Acidity is very high and despite all that sweetness, the wine is not cloying, but dances on the palate. The finish is impressive and lasts nearly ten minutes. What I found most impressive is that, despite all that botrytis, there is none of the road-tar character that noble rot often brings to the table. This is a magnificent ultra-sweet wine right up there with the best German BAs and TBAs. Triple Curly.
Based on the name, I had assumed that this was a six puttonyos aszu with some of the pure eszencia added. Not so. Aszu-Eszencia is the name given to a wine with more than six putts of aszu added. I have tasted pure Tokaji Eszencia. It's overwhelmingly sweet and I can only take a few small sips before palate fatigue sets in. Too much of a good thing, IMO. But finishing a small glass of this Aszu-Eszencia only leaves one wanting more.
-Paul W.
