The place for all things wine, focused on serious wine discussions.

WTN: Revisiting Riesling Spätlese after a cull of sweeties

Moderators: Jenise, Robin Garr, David M. Bueker

no avatar
User

Tim York

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

4963

Joined

Tue May 09, 2006 2:48 pm

Location

near Lisieux, France

WTN: Revisiting Riesling Spätlese after a cull of sweeties

by Tim York » Mon May 05, 2025 2:16 pm

As I have, I think, mentioned before, a few years ago I sold about 150 assorted bottles of whites with varying degrees of RS. Although I loved these wines, our low rate of drinking them represented about 30 years of consumption. The few I held back have been consumed at an even slower rate but here is one. (I had a struggle with a crumbling cork and had to pour the wine through a fine filter to hold back the cork dust!)

2002 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe (03/05/2025)
I used to be a big fan of German prädikat wines from good producers, especially Kabinett and Spätlese. However, a combination of negative remarks from across the table about sweetness and a difficulty in finding suitable pairings for those palates caused me to auction off most of my bottles alongside most of my sweeties from other regions. This bottle was among a large handful of survivors. I was expecting great things here and was a tad disappointed. There were no signs of decay in this bottle. Colour was not unnaturally dark nor were there any oxidized or otherwise deviant aromas. The nose was initially quite shy but attractive aromas of white fruit, touches of citrus and spice along with hydrocarbon hints soon appeared. On the medium - palate the same aromas and fruit followed through with touches of mineral and cream and there was an agreeable underlying roundness. However the remaining acidity was not sufficient to balance a marked sweetness when paired with a main course of scallops. However with starters of samosa fritters, the spices in the dish brought out additional complexity in the wine, including freshening notes of ginger. It is probably that, if I had opened the bottle a few years ago, the acid balance would have been better. Nevertheless very good, although I was hoping for even more.
Posted from CellarTracker
Tim York
no avatar
User

David M. Bueker

Rank

Childless Cat Dad

Posts

35659

Joined

Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:52 am

Location

Connecticut

Re: WTN: Revisiting Riesling Spätlese after a cull of sweeti

by David M. Bueker » Mon May 05, 2025 3:33 pm

Admittedly I am the biggest Donnhoff fanboy on the internet. I am not at all surprised that the wine went better with the samosa fritters than the scallops. I would have expected as much.

As for the acidity, it would not have been more prominent a few years ago, and it fact might have been less so, as the sugars do somewhat moderate over time, while acidity levels remain constant.

Anyway, I still have 3 of that wine, and it sounds like it’s in a zone I would appreciate.
Decisions are made by those who show up
no avatar
User

David M. Bueker

Rank

Childless Cat Dad

Posts

35659

Joined

Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:52 am

Location

Connecticut

Re: WTN: Revisiting Riesling Spätlese after a cull of sweeti

by David M. Bueker » Mon May 05, 2025 5:29 pm

p.s. just opened a bottle of it, and it is certainly still full Spätlese sweet, which buries the sufficient, but not copious acidity.

It’s sure delicious though. Will be great with my spicy dal this evening.
Decisions are made by those who show up
no avatar
User

David M. Bueker

Rank

Childless Cat Dad

Posts

35659

Joined

Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:52 am

Location

Connecticut

Re: WTN: Revisiting Riesling Spätlese after a cull of sweeti

by David M. Bueker » Tue May 06, 2025 10:12 am

My note from the bottle last night…
  • 2002 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe (5/5/2025)
    Hard to believe it’s been 7 years since I last opened one of these, but there it is. Equally hard to believe is that the bottle last night was just as fresh, if not fresher (based on my old note) than the older bottle. It certainly looked fresh, with a just barely past light yellow hue, and the aromas were more fruity than developed. The palate showed more age, but with no diminishment of the fruit. Instead there was an additional level of textural richness, which carried through to a long, peach-infused finish that faded into a saline minerality. Truly a beautiful showing for this wine.
Decisions are made by those who show up
no avatar
User

Tim York

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

4963

Joined

Tue May 09, 2006 2:48 pm

Location

near Lisieux, France

Re: WTN: Revisiting Riesling Spätlese after a cull of sweeti

by Tim York » Tue May 06, 2025 5:34 pm

I wonder if the best way to appreciate these old style prädikat wines isn't perhaps after dinner or mid afternoon with the gentlest of nibbles. The drier wine styles being promoted by VDP are likely to be more food versatile and much better suited to dishes like my scallops. To return to another post I made a few days ago, I could probably buy 10+ bottles of top GG using the auction proceeds from one GC or 1erC Burgundy from a famous producer. While the EU still holds up against external and internal pressures, I would have no problem in shipping them in from Germany.
Tim York
no avatar
User

David M. Bueker

Rank

Childless Cat Dad

Posts

35659

Joined

Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:52 am

Location

Connecticut

Re: WTN: Revisiting Riesling Spätlese after a cull of sweeti

by David M. Bueker » Tue May 06, 2025 5:37 pm

I think that makes a lot of sense Tim. One of my favorite accompaniments to a bottle of Spätlese is a warm spring afternoon. Maybe a little cheese or charcuterie, but the spring day is key.
Decisions are made by those who show up
no avatar
User

Rahsaan

Rank

Wild and Crazy Guy

Posts

9625

Joined

Tue Mar 28, 2006 8:20 pm

Location

New York, NY

Re: WTN: Revisiting Riesling Spätlese after a cull of sweeti

by Rahsaan » Tue May 06, 2025 5:52 pm

Tim York wrote:I wonder if the best way to appreciate these old style prädikat wines isn't perhaps after dinner or mid afternoon with the gentlest of nibbles....


Depends whether you mean old style or old as in aged. The sweetness and pairing possibilities do change over time.

I'm not sure I would say dry or off-dry is more or less versatile in the abstract. It all depends what kind of food you're cooking/like to eat.

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Amazonbot, Babbar, ByteSpider, ClaudeBot, Google AgentMatch and 0 guests

Powered by phpBB ® | phpBB3 Style by KomiDesign