Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona's "Ateo," a Brunello alternative that the winery makes in years when the Sangiovese does poorly, has traditionally been a Sangio-Cab-Merlot blend. This 2023 model is Cab and Merlot without any Sangiovese at all, and it comes in at a startling (climate-driven?) 15 percent alcohol. That, plus plenty of time resting in oak casks, makes it a wine that's, well, perhaps not for everyone. Still, it justifies a price in the lower $20s with intensity, balance, and a presence that should fare well over five to 10 years of cellar time.Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona 2023 "Ateo" Sant'antimo Rosso ($22.99)
Dark ruby in color with a bright reddish-violet edge, "Ateo" Sant'Antimo Rosso is a Tuscan red without a Tuscan grape. Made with equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and aged 18 months in French and American oak barriques, it's oaky, bold, and powerful at a startling 15% alcohol. Even so, as the winery's Brunello alternative, it's an impressive wine, meant for aging or service with red meat. Plums and black cherries fill the nose along with a whiff of licorice and a high-toned suggestion of menthol, and carry over on the palate with firm acidity, soft tannins, and alcoholic warmth. Wafts of dark chocolate and black coffee join in a very long finish. U.S. importer: Indigenous Selections LLC, Fort Lauderdale, Fla.