WTN: So-so Mosel '05

Betsy is working next few nights, we decided to have our corned beef and cabbage a few days early. She used the Silver Palate recipe that includes cloves and leeks, I served the 2005 Merkelbach Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett. OK, no more. Cherry and apple fruit, but a honied sweetness dominates. Not really flabby, but the acids don't match up to the sugars. I ride with Betsy to city, do a speech at a hunger banquet at Hunter, take train home. I revisit the Merkelbach. Acids a little more noticable, but this still seems almost like a (mediocre) dessert wine. Another 2005 Kabinett that is a mild disappointment- in head to head matchups, I always prefer the 2004s (though I didn't have the 2004 of this). I think the idea that 2005 is best at higher pradikats is looking fairly valid. B-/C+

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

[David M. Bueker]

2005 was not a great year for the Merkelbach brothers, as the acids were too low for their style. Don't make any generalizations off their wines.

I too prefer the crisp acidity of the 2004s, but I will bet that in 10-12 years the 2005s will blow us away.

David:
Does your prognostication about the '05s include the Merkelbach spats and auslesen, or would you avoid them as cellar candidates?
Thanks!
Dave Mo...

[David M. Bueker]

I would not buy Merkelbach over other producers in 2005. A quick glance at the professional reviews backs up my tasting results. The wines rae not bad, but you can do much better in this vintage. Heck, you can do much better with Merkelbach 2004s. The Merkelbachs do much better in years with high acidity (Terry Theise says as much as well).

As much as 2005 has been hyped, it was a year for the great producers to make great wines. I love the little guys (e.g. Merklebach, Meulenhof, S.A. Prum...), but none of them are in the same ballpark with the Selbachs, Haart (Rheinhold), J. J. Prum & Haags of the Mosel in 2005.

David, my generalization is more along the lines that I'll look for 2004 Kabinetts (which I tend to drink younger in any case) rather than 2005. Only 2005 Kab I really loved was the Leitz Rude. Mad ( I liked the Zilliken Saar. Rausch last week, but not as much as the 2004). I'm trying to selectively buy some Auslese 2005s when I can.

[David M. Bueker]

Not a bad generalization. But I've picked up some great 2005 kabinetts that I will cellar and drink as high grade spatlese - cheap.

Hmmm.. some insightful and useful perspective here. Many thanks to you both!
Dave Mo

I think 2005s from Mosel in 95% of the cases are great wine. No doubt in my mind this is a great vintage. Also, many lesser producer have made unusually good wines this vintage.

However, your observation about acidities are indeed right on spot. If there are problems in 2005 its this, and there are. I haven't had this wine but there are other estate (very few though) that made really flabby wines 2005.
I don't think its a kabinett problem. It can be at all levels, in fact it should be more common for Ausleses and specially BA and TBAs. Kabinetts should logically have more fresh acidity but it all depends on what mistakes where made at the winery and when.

Generally though, 2005s are so good that you should not worry but expect something very good. Looking at the weather in 2006 it might be a more common problem for the 2006s, but so far all the 2006s I have had, have all been very good indeed and we possibly look at another very good, but not as great as 2005, vintage in Mosel.

There are no great years without some problems. Look at 2005s Bordeaux. Now when I have tries some I think in my view some are too unbalanced and tannic with off flavors and ripeness problem (green and over ripe at the same time) likely from water stress?

Best
Fredrik Svensson, Luxembourg

[David M. Bueker]

A good summary Fredrik. The issue that I (and I think also Dale) have is that kabinetts are not even close to being kabinett anymore. The 2004s, with their brighter acidities and slightly lower must weights made more delicate, elegant wines. 2005 has made monumnets, but not the kind of light-bodied gems that kabinett is known for.

As for 2006, what are your thoughts on the botrytis factor? Is it very widespread? Is the otrytis all good, or is there some grey rot to watch out for?

I have tried too few 2006 to make an overall opinion if botrytis generally have had a bad taste in 2006.

In the few 2006s I have had it has not at all been a problem. I think the 2006s will be very varied in style. Some might be quite fruity with tropical fruit, some of those with flabby tendencies and some are great wines easily rivaling the 2006s. I suspect, at this stage of my tasting experience, that flabbiness will be a larger problem in 2006 than bad botrytis taste.

I will get back for a report when I have tried more. 2006 might be a year when it is important to listen to critics since it can be quite easy to spot who succeeded in making good wines, regardless of personal taste.

I think generally 2006 in Mosel and maybe even more so in Rheingau (not that it is better in Rheingau but they were quite negative there), will be much better than originally thought.

Best
Fredrik Svensson

Not a bad generalization. But I've picked up some great 2005 kabinetts that I will cellar and drink as high grade spatlese - cheap.

Any suggestions, David? My 2005 Kabinett picks so far are the Zilliken Saarburger Rausch (as I said,I like 2004 better, but still liked) and especially the Leitz Rudesheimer Klosterlay. Would love to find more cellar candidates.

As to 2004 Kabs, opened the Max. Grunhauser Herrenberg - nfanticide, but I really liked. Will report after revisiting tonight.

[David M. Bueker]

I really like the 2005 Schmitt-Wagner Kabinett, and also the Selbach-Oster Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett. They are both what I would call "crunchy" with extract. Both 2004s are brighter, but the 2005s are legendary.