WTN: The interesting Mosel (Tennstedt, Heymann-Löwenstein)

Tonight was the more interesting side of the Mosel. 2020 Jakob Tennstedt Mauer Fuchs Riesling was something I know better than to try in the US, where the bottles seem to be regularly beaten up. But figured when in Germany, why not get a taste.

And those tastes were delicious! Needs some air to shake off the initial natty funk, but then it becomes a very nice wine. Of course plenty of hazy nutty sour ‘natural’ wine notes, but also some nice firm structured red apple skin texture, plus juicy berry notes, and crystalline cut on the finish to complement the cloudy natural haze. I would happily order this while lounging in a wine bar. Which is perhaps the intended demographic.

That said, I have no plans to purchase more, because I would be hard pressed to identify this as a riesling, or as a Mosel wine, or even as a German wine. It could be from anywhere. Still, while not for me to chase, I’m sure others enjoy…

More in my core zone was the 2019 Heymann-Löwenstein Uhlen Laubach Riesling GG, which needs some time for the reduction to dissipate. But then it kicks into gear with all the familiar notes of mineral ripe grilled mirabelle plums, and the ever present smokey herbal notes that some probably find distracting, but frankly I enjoy that ‘character’ to these wines. With more age, it will indeed enter different stages, but still enjoyable for me now. And I’m not an expert on Laubach, it is more delicate and less powerful than the Roth Lay, but everything has its place…

[David M. Bueker]

Interesting comment regarding the Mauer Fuchs. I had a bottle, provided to me by someone who should know how to handle the wines, and it was frankly a disgusting mess.

Interesting comment regarding the Mauer Fuchs. I had a bottle, provided to me by someone who should know how to handle the wines, and it was frankly a disgusting mess.

Well I think it's beyond knowledge of refrigeration. Some of these natural wines are just too delicate for transport. Even in the home country, not far from the place of production, too many of these wines are too unreliable for me. Let alone once they cross an ocean!

I purchased the Tennstedt from a natural wine store in Berlin that is moving away from importing South American natural wines, because regardless of their efforts, the distance makes it too unreliable. (Maybe if you overnight the bottle in a refrigerated case direct from the winery, but that's not going to happen at scale)

[David M. Bueker]

I largely agree with you, though I think there are certain people who celebrate flawed wines.