WTN: Salil comes to town (Hebrart, Baudry, Baron…)

[David M. Bueker]

Salil came to visit on Friday evening. Lovely to catch up, and yes we drank well.

Marc Hebrart Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut (disgorged March 2021) was initially a touch steely, but opened up quite quickly with deeper fruit, and a hint of yeastiness. The real kicker was when we had the last bit with the main course, which involved fresh lemon juice as an ingredient in two of the dishes. The Hebrart just blossomed. More fruit, more freshness, more power. Honestly it took a good wine to stunning.

2011 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Franc de Pied was served blind to Salil just for a bit of fun. I thought it had an obvious Loire Cab Franc profile, but it did also have a deep meaty streak that sent Salil (and my wife, who smelled the wine) down the Syrah path. We eventually got around to the right area, and then could focus on how well this bottling is showing right now. The dusty red fruit got a little stronger with air, but the wine maintained a deep salinity through the full evening. Still some significant tannin, but nevertheless very enjoyable to drink now. Sadly my last bottle.

1989 Chateau Pichon Baron was Salil’s gracious contribution, and my first opportunity to taste this modern legend. First off it had the most pristine cork I have ever seen in a 30+ year old wine. Staining only a couple of millimeters into the cork. The w8ne itself started rather burly, feeling more Montelena than deuxieme cru. A decant fixed that, and the more air the more classic Bordeaux elements emerged. Integrated, still vibrant fruit, cedar, pencil shavings, and all the other wonderful Bordeaux elements in a single, enthralling glass of wine. Burgundy gets the sexy prizes, but fine Bordeaux is regal in a way that Burgundy does not touch.

2019 Vollenweider Riesling Spätlese Kröver Steffensberg just had a tough spot, as we were ready to move onto dessert, but I grabbed a glass afterward, and enjoyed the purity and class of a classically proportioned Spätlese with slightly honeyed fruit, and a finishing acidity that cleaned everything up. Beautiful wine that deserved its own spot to shine.

So my guesses on the Baudry, when David served it blind...

"Syrah?" (there was a strong saline/olive note sending me in that direction.)

"Nope."

"Really? Something about the elegance and finesse has me thinking of a top Cote-Rotie, or Edmunds St. John"

...

"Burgundy? I mean, it's *really* dark fruited for Burg, and a bit tannic, maybe Nuits or Vosne, but it's so elegant and pretty."

"Nope."

eventually I came around to the Loire. but for those of you who don't share my obsession with Baudry and the FDP bottling, the fact that I was wondering about ESJ or a top tier/high end Burgundy says a lot about just how freaking amazing that wine is. (and, likely, my own blind tasting capabilities )

Just a wonderful evening. Such lovely wines, and a joy to actually sit and follow them with time. In the case of both reds, I am convinced I would not have gotten the same pleasure or experienced the same depth out of either if I'd had them at a bigger wine dinner/event - they both really needed time to show a lot of layers. Also, a note on the chicken David grilled for dinner. Just spectacular, with such brightness to the flavours. (The blueberry crisp he made for dessert was also lovely, as was the toasted almond ice cream from Collins Creamery which is now on my list of ice creams I need to keep in my freezer. Dangerously delicious stuff.)