NV Bas Armagnac Napoleon Ugni Blanc, Artez les Jamots
NV Bas Armagnac Napoleon Folle Blanche, Artez les Jamots
Around Christmas time each year the New Hampshire state liquor stores feature holiday gift packs, typically some spirit along with a couple of glasses or tumblers, or a trio of small bottles of the distillery's various products. About 10 years ago one of these was a 3-bottle collection of Artez Bas Armagnacs, the unusual thing being that they were distilled from single grape varieties: ugni blanc, baco noir, and folle blanche. And indeed the three spirits did show distinctive varietal character. The NH stores haven't carried the holiday package since, but recently I found a Massachusetts store that carries the Artez varietal ugni blanc and folle blanche so I got some. According to the label these spirits are made from single variety old vines, singly distilled, and aged in Monlezun oak.
Folle blanche was the main grape variety in both Cognac and Armagnac until the 19th century phylloxera epidemic destroyed the vineyards. Baco noir, a phylloxera-immune V. vinifera x V. rupestris hybrid direct producer, was brought in as a replacement. Once American rootstock grafting became commonplace, ugni blanc (aka trebbiano) became the dominant variety in Bas Armagnac, although small amounts of both folle blanche and baco noir are still grown.
I've long believed that Bas Armagnac is what Cognac hopes to be when it grows up. These Artez examples are decidedly not in the same class as Laberdolive's vintage Bas Armagnacs, but they are fine spirits indeed. As with all Bas Armagnac they have more assertive aromas and flavor than most Cognacs but they combine that with finesse. These two spirits have decidedly different aroma and flavor profiles. The folle blanche has more floral character, while the ugni blanc is more forceful. Both are excellent spirits. Curly Double Larry for the folle blanche, Curly Larry with a bit of Moe (because of the slightly rough character) for the ugni blanc.
-Paul W.