WTN: Trick and treat (23 Lassak, 21 Koehler-Ruprecht)

I was very excited to open the 2023 Lassak Hambach Riesling as it's a rare wine (906 bottles produced) and thought it could be a natural wine that hit my registers (so said the German retailer). Unfortunately, the promising clear juicy gulpable fruit was supplemented with tangy sour slightly-plasticky natural notes that veered away from my pleasure zone.

But no fear. After that trick, I popped a treat with the 2021 Koehler-Ruprecht Saumagen Spätlese Riesling Trocken and classic elegance was returned to my palate. Firm 2021 fruit but with some lovely depth. I've been drinking several bottles of the 21 Kabinett Trocken, that have gotten fuller over time, but this is clearly a more refined wine. Good fruit but also good Pfalz KR bitter bite. Substance, elegance, composure: all good dinner companion traits.

[David M. Bueker]

K-R went through a rough patch IMO. Your note is promising.

I may not be the best judge because I never noticed that rough patch. I have enjoyed wines back to the 00s, but haven't systematically tracked every vintage. When did you date the rough patch? I'm guessing the post-09 transition from Philippi to Sona could have been the period?

Regardless, I know the savory edge to the wines is not for everyone, but I enjoy the style. And it's not as severe as Becker.

[David M. Bueker]

2005 and 2015 have been universally bad with every bottle I have tried. Granted they all came through one importer, but still. Tired and oxidized.

2005 and 2015 have been universally bad with every bottle I have tried. Granted they all came through one importer, but still. Tired and oxidized.

Interesting. I've enjoyed vintages back to the 80s but can't remember if I've had those. Certainly doesn't track the change over.

I split a 6 of the 2015 Kallstadter Saumagen Spatlese Trocken with a friend, enjoyed all. But drank fairly young. Liked the 2017 too.
I don't think I ever tried any KR that was older.

Same trick happened this week, as I started with my last bottle of 2015 Heymann-Löwenstein Uhlen R Riesling GG, which did not impress as much as earlier bottles. It used to have lovely crisp coiled tension that spoke of potential. Now it is a bit loose for my tastes, showing some pungent flavors and funky rs that is less present in recent vintages. I'll probably never know if this is just a stage or a slow decline away from my palate.

But I'm more excited about recent vintage HL and was happy to open 2016 Alzinger Ried Steinertal Riesling Smaragd as an alternative. A ripe powerful wine that may not be my favorite vintage expression, but it has such lovely detailed Alzinger elegance. Layers and precision to the structure, vibrant, great with dinner, bravo.