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TN: December Blind Tasting Lunch

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Bill Spohn

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TN: December Blind Tasting Lunch

by Bill Spohn » Fri Dec 05, 2025 7:30 pm

There was no specific theme for the last wine lunch of the year and we saw a great range of wines’

NV Sebastian Mouzon L'ineffable Special Club Brut Champagne – fine mousse, a bit of roast nuts in the nose and a clean finish. Very decent.

Jean Vesselle Champagne Brut Œil de Perdrix – a blanc de noir from my s=cellar that I have always found dependable – more flavor interest and pale pink colour with slight yeastiness in the nose – very good.

1990 Parusso Barolo Mariondino – from my cellar. I had opened a bottle of the same vintage regular wine earlier in the week and found it to be fading so thought I’d try the single vineyard wine. Pale edges, clean nose of spice and oak, decent length and flavor tru to form. Holding well at this age (I have a cool cellar at 13 C.) but the last bottle will be moved into the ‘drink’ bin later this year.

1989 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière – my other wine. It was in very good shape and was a typical right bank survivor with pale edges, soft tannins and some very attractive spice – smelled as if someone was grating some nutmeg as well as some mint. Excellent length, very smooth and for some of us (myself included) the best wine of the day. They fumbled about a bit on figuring out what it might be and I threw out a clue by offering that it was one of the big ‘guns’ but that failed t lead them to canon.

1974 Christian Brothers Cabernet – surprise of the tasting when this was revealed! Still fairly dark with lightening edges and a very smooth presentation. The nose was faint sweet fruit and on palate it showed at least decent fruit. A pleasant surprise. From a great vintage

2001 Delas Hermitage Les Besardes – dark wine with some spice in the nose plus hints of tar and with a bit of airing some black olive as well. Decent but not very expressive – perhaps on the way down? Note to self – open a bottle of my 2005 soon!

2007 Ch. L’Eglise-Clinet – very dark right out to the edges and showing as ripe although not what I would call over ripe. I think this wine will continue to improve with age.


2010 Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets St. Georges – the opposite to the previous wine in terms of colour – pale with lots of red fruit in the nose, as well as an earthiness. And with a bit of time some floral hints. This was excellent now but is still in early life and a bit austere – give it a few years or decant and let stand if you want to drink it now.

2010 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon – very, very dark and not giving much detail yet.

2009 Ridge Monte Bello – still quite dark with a nose of blackberry and black currant, concentrated and with excellent length but hard to plumb the depths on this one. 72% cab sauv 22% merlot,6% petit verdot

2005 Selbach Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Auslese – 9.5% alcohol, middling sweet and impeccably balanced and showing a tropical fruit nose. Smooth sweet and perhaps a tad low in acidity, but good).

2001 CH. Coutet - this Barsac was in fine shape- quite sweet but also well balanced with sufficient acidity. Fruit levels were excellent with apricot and a hint of banana and perhaps a whiff of pineapple - a real fruit salad of a wine.

P.S. Jenise did some lovely racks of lamb for lunch, which went superbly with the red wines.
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Re: TN: December Blind Tasting Lunch

by Jenise » Sat Dec 06, 2025 1:34 pm

I apparently was an outlier on Kim's L'ineffable. Everybody said good things about it but, honestly, I didn't care for it at all. I remember using the word 'dank', and there was a bit of onion skin in the flavors. When I want champagne, dank and onion skin don't do it for me.

Loved the Vesselle, and in fact guessed what it was--I own some, too.

About the reds: the Gouges was rough, nowhere near ready, ditto the Quilceda Creek, and the Parusso was on the downhill slide. The Delas was fine but lacked the glory of Hermitage as we know it.

The most exciting wine of the day, solely due to its age, was my '74 Christian Brothers, a wine I've held back for years until Drew (who is hard to pin down) could join us for an appropriate theme, because I know it's his birth year. The cork was pretty darned perfect for a 50 year old wine, and not loose at all but though I used a Durand it would have come out nicely with a simple Screwpull. I decanted it (very little sediment) on arrival and it sat for an hour before getting poured. It continued improving in the glass. This wine certainly wasn't in the same league as the last '74 I had, a killer Mayacamas, but for its age and origins (who expects anything great from Christian Brothers?) it was spectacular.

The other bests for sheer great quality at a great time in life were your Canon and John's Montebello. I have no detailed comments as I only took mental notes because I forgot to pack my notebook, and plus my brain turned off when the stickies showed up (I was more entertained by a final pour of the '74), but there you go.

Btw, trip home was a slog. Took me 3 hours! I berated myself the whole way for not staying over.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: TN: December Blind Tasting Lunch

by Bill Spohn » Sat Dec 06, 2025 3:09 pm

Yes, the Christian Brothers was so surprising - you usually expect decent winemaking from them but nothing more and it stood out! That vintage helped!
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Re: TN: December Blind Tasting Lunch

by David M. Bueker » Sat Dec 06, 2025 3:48 pm

As much as 2005 was lauded as a vintage of the century in the Mosel, I am not a big fan. The wines are a bit overwrought and maturing quickly IMO.
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Re: TN: December Blind Tasting Lunch

by Jenise » Sat Dec 06, 2025 6:47 pm

Bill Spohn wrote:Yes, the Christian Brothers was so surprising - you usually expect decent winemaking from them but nothing more and it stood out! That vintage helped!


Yeah. Had it not been a vintage like '74 or '78, I wouldn't have taken a chance on it.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: TN: December Blind Tasting Lunch

by John S » Sun Dec 07, 2025 4:25 pm

It's always interesting to see how different people view wines. I agree the special club had some 'interesting' flavours, but I didn't mind those flavours and thought it was better, more complex, than the second champagne. I agree the 1990 Parusso Barolo Mariondino and the 2001 Delas Hermitage were both not what they could and should have been (although I haven't had many Delas wines that I loved).

The 1989 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière was definitely one of the best of the day, a lovely Bordeaux in a great spot now - probably at peak now. The 1974 Christian Brothers Cabernet was in the running too, lovely old school Napa cab with a lovely nose and very elegant red fruit flavours. The 2007 Ch. L’Eglise-Clinet was grumpy and wasn;t showing very much; the 2010 Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets St. Georges was also not on this day and probably should have been opened as the first red.

Jenise's 2010 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon was indeed very dark and not giving up too much now. But I did enjoy tasting this wine - my first time - and it wasn't the barbarian that some people suggest. My 2009 Ridge Monte Bello was served last and probably didn't get the attention it should have, but I really enjoyed this wine. Another dark, very concentrated Bordeaux blend but with more complexity and elegance than the previous wine. I decanted it for 4 hours, but it still was tight. But again great to try this wine.

The 2005 Selbach Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Auslese was also a little lost at the end, but I thought it was in a great space right now. Much drier than previously tasted bottles many years ago, and I thought it had lovely complexity, balance and elegance. The 2001 Coutet was also a nice dessert wine but was a little lost in the end.

But thanks to all for bringing some great wines and thanks also to Jenise for the yummy lunch!
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Re: TN: December Blind Tasting Lunch

by Jenise » Mon Dec 08, 2025 11:05 am

John, indeed. Do you think a different bottle of the special club might show differently? I suspect some sort of taint, but maybe it's me who was tainted. :) It's unusual that the room thinks more or less one way and I think something else entirely--it was like we weren't even drinking the same wine.

Agree re the Delas. I've not had any Delas that was better than just okay. I was kind of surprised to see it, considering who brought it.

The QC was a disaster. Sweet, gobby blackberry fruit, backward. I have really loved this winery in the low-point years, like '06 and '08. Meanwhile '07 (which I sold off) and '10 were each Parker 100 pointers. Previous '10s were better which is why I kept them. Sorry about that now!

But thank you for the Montebello. That was truly special.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: TN: December Blind Tasting Lunch

by Dale Williams » Mon Dec 08, 2025 11:56 am

Wow, 50+ year old Christian Brothers! Impressive.
Fun lineup
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Re: TN: December Blind Tasting Lunch

by Bill Spohn » Mon Dec 08, 2025 2:17 pm

Jenise wrote:Agree re the Delas. I've not had any Delas that was better than just okay. I was kind of surprised to see it, considering who brought it. .


Uh-oh! I cellar some Delas Rhones. Which ones did you not like (if you can recall them)?
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Re: TN: December Blind Tasting Lunch

by Jenise » Mon Dec 08, 2025 2:22 pm

Bill, I owned some Hermitages back in the early 2000's. Can't tell you at this point which vintage(s) though.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: TN: December Blind Tasting Lunch

by Bill Spohn » Mon Dec 08, 2025 2:28 pm

Jenise wrote:Bill, I owned some Hermitages back in the early 2000's. Can't tell you at this point which vintage(s) though.


I'll make a point of trying what I have soon (with you) and we'll see - not necessarily that old (05 Bessards, and I have a case of Tourettes - Goddamit) and some recent Crozes (that one will likely get opened on steak night Fridays).
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Re: TN: December Blind Tasting Lunch

by Jenise » Mon Dec 08, 2025 3:13 pm

All will probably be drinkable, as was Drew's Hermitage. They just might (probably will) fall short of expectations based on what you know from other producers.
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Re: TN: December Blind Tasting Lunch

by Mark Lipton » Mon Dec 08, 2025 4:57 pm

Bill Spohn wrote:
Jenise wrote:Bill, I owned some Hermitages back in the early 2000's. Can't tell you at this point which vintage(s) though.


I'll make a point of trying what I have soon (with you) and we'll see - not necessarily that old (05 Bessards, and I have a case of Tourettes - Goddamit) and some recent Crozes (that one will likely get opened on steak night Fridays).


I'm with Jenise. As far as N Rhone negociants go, I put Delas Freres a notch below Chapoutier and Guigal (and Vidal-Fleury RIP) and two notches below Jaboulet pre-1997 (one notch thereafter). Truth be told, though, I've rarely bought much from any of them save for some Thalaberts from Jaboulet and the occasional Hermitage La Chapelle.

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