2017 Wehrheim Kastanienbusch Riesling GG
Linear Kastanienbusch lemons and minerals. A loose and rustic wine, as all my previous bottles have been. Gains a bit of depth with decanting/air, and is fine for a glass to accompany food. But when I’m being picky, I select other things.
2021 Wehrheim Kastanienbusch Riesling GG
I had a really great bottle of this ‘21 last year, but subsequent bottles have not reached the same heights. This last bottle is juicy and friendly with some good shape and cut and certainly better drive than the 2017. But still looser and rustic than my Rebholz ideal. Maybe this evolves on the other end into something more magical, but I am not likely to find out.
2022 Wehrheim Kastanienbusch Riesling GG
Continuing the theme, we have a structured linear wine that opens nicely with zesty golden juicy body and flavors. More youthful presence and richer flavors than the 21, but the looser and rustic theme continues.
In my more generous moments, I have appreciated the friendly approachability of these Wehrheim Kastanienbusch wines, and it doesn’t hurt that they are cheaper than Rebholz. But I fear the level of Rebholz is still my heart.
2022 Rebholz Kastanienbusch Riesling GG
Class. Crystal clarity with the typical long strands of Kastanienbusch that is simultaneously more concentrated and more elegant than the Wehrheim versions. Unlike the forward nature of the Wehrheim ’22, this is still leaning on the structure, even as the fruit deepens. So more age will be required. But the elegant crystal clarity is always there, and I very much appreciate these wines!