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WTN: 22 Spanish wines 1958-2017, plus one Champagne

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Dale Williams

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WTN: 22 Spanish wines 1958-2017, plus one Champagne

by Dale Williams » Fri Jun 19, 2026 4:10 pm

I was a little late getting to a Spanish wine dinner in Croton Thursday- here’s a tip, on windy days always put down the umbrella on your patio table- it takes a long time to clean up glass from a 48” table top.

Arrived to find some nice cheeses (especially the Delice de Bourgogne) and charcuterie with some lovely bread from Stone Barns.

2013 AT Roca Brut Nature
Lemon, caraway/rye bread, salt air. I liked more than some. B+/B

2013 AT Roca Rosat Brut
Deep and tangy, cherries and blood orange B+

2015 Luís Rodríguez A Teixa Blanco
Lovely, bright, citrusy and long saline finish. B+/A-

2015 La Melonera Le Encina del Inglés Blanco
Blend of Moscatel Morisco, Pedro Ximénez and Doradilla. Fino sherry flavors (though not oxidative), apple and herbs, bitter at first but gets better. But I never loved (others did). B-

2013 Cividade Mencía (Ribeira Sacra)
Black raspberry and plums, coffee, green pepper, herbs. Complex, bright, and long. B++
2011 Cazoga “Don Diego” Mencía Ribeira Sacra
Quieter, plush cassis fruit. B-/B

1991 Muga “Prado Enea” Rioja Gran Reserva
Black cherry, espresso, floral. Good length, classic and complex. B+/A-

1989 La Rioja Alta “890” Rioja Gran Reserva
Plenty of coconutty wood, but it’s integrated and spicy, lovely red and black cherry fruit. A-

Shrimp with smoked paprika, grilled peppers and zucchini, salad

2017 Lopez de Heredia “Vina Gravonia” Rioja Reserva Blanco
Delicious with long future, electric acids, young and fresh. A-/B+

2007 Lopez de Heredia “Vina Gravonia” Rioja Reserva Blanco
Savory, nutty, honeydew and citrus, almonds. Fine acids. B+

2013 Emmanuel Brochet “les Hauts Chardonnays Extra Brut Champagne
Lovely, citrus and buttermilk biscuits, intensely long chalky finish. A-

1986 CVNE “Vina Real” Rioja Reserva
Complex with incense and red fruits, still a bit of hard tannin. B+/B

1985 La Rioja Alta “890” Rioja Gran Reserva
Integrated American oak, raspberry and cherry, sandalwood, coffee and herbs. Delicious, long, and lovely. A-

1982 Torres “Mas La Plana” Gran Coronas
I like Torres but this one has crashed and burned. Not good. D

1982 Riojanas “Vina Albina” Rioja Reserva
Corked, Really corked

1980 Riojanas “Vina Albina” Rioja Reserva
Fresh and delicate, lighter than preceding Riojas Cherries, cocoa, floral. B+

1976 Torres “Black Label” Gran Coronas Reserva
I thought somewhat volatile, disjointed, and decayed. C (some thought it rebounded later)

1976 Marques de Riscal Rioja Reserva
Lifted, a little nail polish remover, dried cherries, consensus is better 10+ years ago. B-/C+

Short ribs with orange zest, yum

1973 La Rioja Alta “Vina Arana” Rioja Reserva Sexto Ano
Red fruits, I thought this quite hard and a little dirty, but at least one person really liked. C/C+

1968 Riojanas “Monte Real” Rioja Gran Reserva
Light and delicate, but with a good candied red fruit core with some nutty notes. B+

1966 Bilbainas “Vina Pomal” Rioja Reserva
Sour cherry, toffee, silky texture, mature and tasty. B+

1964 Montecillo “Vina Monty” Rioja Reserva
Not a producer I really know, but the great vintage triumphs. Rich red fruits, nutskins, clove, and orange peel. No perceptible tannin, and it begins to crack up with air, but to start one of my favorites of the night. A-/B+

1958 Palacio de Arganza Tinto de Tierra de Castillo y Leon (Bierzo)
68 year old Mencia? Low expectations, met. Not actually dead, there’s some brambly dark fruit, but overlaid with some ashtray and a little bandaid. Craig said a bottle of the 1970 was actually quite good. C+/B-

Fun night with fun people, great food, and some great wines (and some other wines).

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was the only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Mark Lipton

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Re: WTN: 22 Spanish wines 1958-2017, plus one Champagne

by Mark Lipton » Sat Jun 20, 2026 1:47 pm

Oof! So sorry to hear about the table, Dale. What a mess! We've lost a couple of patio umbrellas to high winds here. For the past decade, we've used ones designed to not act like a kite in high winds, but we still take them down when storms are forecast.
Re the wines: it sounds like a fun tasting. Bummer about those Torres wines. Like you, I've had some good experience with them. The '78 Black Label stands out in memory as a really fine example of what they can do, but I've never tried aging one 40-50 years, either.

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