Perhaps the most famous vintage Port is Quinta do Noval's Nacional, which comes from a small plot in the Noval vineyard that is planted to ungrafted vines. Some years ago the Rare Wine Company in Brisbane CA was offering some vintages in Nacional at prices that didn't require taking out a second mortgage so I bought some of the 1970, 1983, and 1985. I opened a couple recently
1985 Quinta do Noval Porto Nacional
A classic example of fully mature vintage Port. Translucent brick color, complex aroma, and on the palate complex flavors and perfect balance, with no sharp edges of acidity or tannins. But... a bit toned down for a Nacional. Enjoyable now but I don't think it will improve with any more age. Double Larry.
1970 Quinta do Noval Porto Nacional
This is more of what Nacional should be. Far more youthful-looking than the 1985. And the aroma! This is one of those wines where you just want to breathe it in, and actually drinking the wine is something of an afterthought. On the palate one would never guess it was 56 years old. There is the same grace and complexity as in the 1985, but also strength and power (sorry, Mr. Parker--no "oodles of hedonistic fruit here"). Amazingly there's still a touch of tannin and acidity to be resolved. The finish goes on forever. Enjoy it now and for the next several decades. Triple Curly.
-Paul W.

