WTN: How Now Orange Cowan

[David M. Bueker]

• 2012 Cowan Cellars Ribolla Gialla - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (8/13/2026)
  From my late father’s cellar, this was a one off that he had. Not even sure when he bought it, as it was not in the inventory.
  
  For those who don’t know, this is a skin contact white, and at 14 years old definitely an orange wine but not at all oxidized. I am a skin contact white wine skeptic, but Jim Cowan had recently commented that this was drinking well, so figure no time like the present.
  
  Served initially at cellar temp, there was not a lot going on. No fruit to speak of, but an interesting mouthfeel, that had me thinking waxy. I let it warm up some more (per Jim’s advice), and while it never showed any kind of fruit, it did express all sorts of savory and saline elements. I love savory wine, so I was 100% OK with that. Don’t think more cellar time is going to reveal anything more, but it’s very good now if you like savory instead of fruity.

Interesting. I just saw Jim's note on this wine, which were similar to yours except he did find fruit in it.

[David M. Bueker]

Interesting. I just saw Jim's note on this wine, which were similar to yours except he did find fruit in it.

Probably bottle variation in a 14 year old Ribolla.

I bought some Cowan wines (he is a nice guy). Thought this was good on release, but my favorite Cowan wine was the Isa Sauvignon Blanc (also skin contact). I never really grooved on the reds, but recently realized I have a couple of bottles of PN. Will get them out soon.

[David M. Bueker]

I still have some Cowan Syrah, and have always enjoyed those more than anything else he made.

[Jenise]

my favorite Cowan wine was the Isa Sauvignon Blanc (also skin contact).

Same! It was magical. Took it to one of Bill's lunches in Vancouver, back when they were in a particular downtown restaurant every month. I've never tasted anything like it since.