I had planned to make a dinner the day when a few Belgian friends, solid table friends, intended to go to Paris. I had decided not to join them for lunch, but the temptation was too strong. We met by Alain Senderens.
Being largely in advance, I had time to talk to the radiant Madame Senderens, as Alain was not there, and to choose some wines to propose to my friends. My choice was adopted, and even more, improved, as I had chosen a more modest year for the red, letting them the choice to improve or not, which they did.
We begin with Champagne Clos des Goisses Philipponnat 1989 which goes with « asperges vertes de Lauris « crues et cuites », tagliatelle de seiche à l’huile épicée ». The colour is a marvellous gold. The bubble is discrete but does not modify the exciting impression in mouth, and the nose is extremely intense. This champagne is purely great. The taste is honey, brioche and sun. On the asparagus, it’s a delight. The length is incredible. More and more I love Clos des Goisses.
On a « foie gras de canard poché, dans un bouillon à la chinoise », we have a Riesling Clos Sainte Hune Trimbach 1981. I would never have thought that 1981 could have this dimension. It is one of the greatest Ste Hune that I have ever had, largely better than the 1981 which was included in a vertical tasting of 19 vintages of Clos Ste Hune. The foie gras plays magnificently with the golden Riesling, nearly sweet. It is a gorgeous wine, where everything is assembled with the precision of a Swiss watch. It is generous, full of joy, and with a persistency which is spectacular. To combine in this way citrus and sweetness is great. We adored it.
The « suprêmes de pigeon rôtis, cuisses en pastilla et navets caramélisés à la cannelle » take a considerable advantage when associated to Château de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin 1990. Immediately, by the first sip, it is clear that this is perfection. I have already had many times this year of Hommage either in bottle or in magnum. This one has got perfection, which age gives naturally. Certainly influenced by the discussions which exist on forums, I had a thought : “this is a 100 points Parker”. But immediately I thought that this does not add anything to my pleasure as it is reductive to give a note. In the scale of perfect wines, where is it ? I do not care. I preferred to think at the precious wood so intelligently controlled, at the fruit which is singing, and at the general balance which fills the mouth with sociability. This is a magnificent wine, full of happiness.
Without sense of moderation, I took a « macaron à la rose et au litchi ». The taste of rose is sensual.
I would like to say that Alain Senderens is the contrary of Canada Dry. Because this restaurant has now not the look, not the aspect of a three stars, as it is the choice of Alain to have taken a new direction. But it is a pure three stars. Because no one else would be able to create such a perfect cook based on simple recipes.
I dream that Alain would get again, despite his wish, his three stars. That would be deliciously decadent.
As time flew, I had to run to go by Patrick Pignol to open the wines for the dinner.