Bierzo

Bierzo is an area of northwestern Spain which grows the mencia grape; a grape that can, at its best, produce fragrant, fresh, crisply fruit wines with elegant tannin that drink well early. It can also age, especially when blended with garnacha tintorera (a/k/a alicante). Most vineyards are planted on alluvial soils between 1,600 and 2,000 feet along the river valleys and temperatures in summer approach 90 degrees F. The area grows other red and white varieties but mencia is my interest and I have been following its wines for several years now.
Other notable producers not mentioned below are Peique, Pérez Caramés, Prada a Topa, Vinos de Bierzo (co-op), Martínez Yebra and Pittacum.


Two recent wines from Bierzo:

2000 Bodegas Estefanía, Bierzo Tilenus Pagos de Posado:
Smells of grilled/smoked meat, warm herbs and poop – almost no fruit scents; tastes more of fruit and similar to a cabernet franc done in CA, texturally polished, decent length. Although still in evidence, much of the oak this showed on release has morphed but, unfortunately it still obscures the fruit on the nose and leaves the finish with a sweet and sour note. Old vines here but winemaking decisions all but eliminate the taster finding out what they can do. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $20 (marked down from $44); I’ll not buy more.

2004 Bodegas Martin Codax, Bierzo Cuatro Pasos:
Sort of Duboeuf does mencia with very forward red fruit on both the nose and palate but ultimately a simple, quaffing wine. Even so, Diane and I both liked this more than the Tilenus. 14% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $10; I’ll not buy more.

One would think that somewhere on the sliding scale between these two styles, this grape and this terroir would allow for a well made version of mencia; neither of these houses achieve that.
I’ve had a little better luck with the low-end bottlings from Domino de Tares; their higher priced bottlings being over-oaked. But my only reliable find from this region has been from Descendientes de J. Palacios; their pricey Corullíon is too woody for me but the inexpensive Bierzo is an appetizing, rustic, village wine.
I would hate to think that all the old vine fruit in this area is relegated to being aged in new barrique. But then, very few of the producers here have a long history in the region so perhaps their learning curve in the days to come will move them away from so much new wood.

Best, Jim

Thanks for the note, Jim. I recently reviewed the Dominio de Tares Albares "Bierzo" Mencia 2004 here, and wondered if you have tried it.

We liked it so much we bought a case, and have now drunk all but two bottles. I'll post a comprehensive note in a few weeks, but I must say we found a tremendous amount of bottle variation.

Many of the bottles were delicious, but a couple were so over-oaked we could barely find any fruit.

Regards, Bob

Link to previous note here.

[Jenise]

Have yet to have a Bierzo/mencia. Your note reminds me that I purchased some from Garagiste so I could quit saying that, but damn if I know what they are or whether or not they're in the cellar. Your note makes me hopeful that what I have is neither of these, though.

[David M. Bueker]

I had three wines from Bierzo (all Mencia) a few weeks ago, and I did not like any of them. 2 were thick and overly oaky, and the third was a dried out, mouth puckering shell of a wine.

I will keep trying, but so far no success.

There's much better stuff around to be tasted, Jim - look for Castro Ventosa's Valtuille, for Paixar, for Peique, for Pittacum (and for post-2000 Tilenus from Estefanía - far less oak-infused than this 2000 made in a middling year by a then-fledgling winery). New oak is not per se a sin - it's a sin if applied to a wine that cannot gain anything positive from it. IMHO, of course.

[David M. Bueker]

Good suggestions Victor. Thanks. Any idea who brings them to the USA?

Great ideas there Victor, maybe there is an agent around here. Will check and report back!

Well, checking Wine-Searcher.com I can see that Peique, Paixar (this one, at incredibly high prices) and the cheaper Castro Ventosa wines are available in the US, but apparently Pittacum isn't.

Try the Terra Cua. Lovely one. Oak is not very pronounced, minerality, soft fruit and nice aftertaste.
I gave it blind and spain was a hit and a real surprise to everybody.

Francesco

Thanks for the note, Jim. I recently reviewed the Dominio de Tares Albares "Bierzo" Mencia 2004 here, and wondered if you have tried it.

We liked it so much we bought a case, and have now drunk all but two bottles. I'll post a comprehensive note in a few weeks, but I must say we found a tremendous amount of bottle variation.

Many of the bottles were delicious, but a couple were so over-oaked we could barely find any fruit.

Bob, I have purchased the Dominio de Tares from time-to-time over the years, and (lucklily, I guess), have never run into a bad bottle. I do have to say, however, that the 2004 vintage is not nearly as good as 2001, the first vintage I tried for this wine. -- Clark

I have managed to track down the `05 Palacios Petalos for $31 Cdn.

I have managed to track down the `05 Palacios Petalos for $31 Cdn.

I think I paid approximately $22 US for it, but I'm not certain. I really enjoyed this wine. It reminded me very much of certain Oregon pinot noirs I've had. Slightly cherry, slightly earthy, very meaty. A lovely wine. I'll look for more of this. Oh wait, I don't have to, I have another in the wine fridge! I enjoyed it all the more as a discovery of a region I hadn't encountered before.

I have managed to track down the `05 Palacios Petalos for $31 Cdn.

I think I paid approximately $22 US for it, but I'm not certain. I really enjoyed this wine. It reminded me very much of certain Oregon pinot noirs I've had. Slightly cherry, slightly earthy, very meaty. A lovely wine. I'll look for more of this. Oh wait, I don't have to, I have another in the wine fridge! I enjoyed it all the more as a discovery of a region I hadn't encountered before.

Just tasted same wine, Laura. Very dark color, even with food I found the tannins overpower. Hint of sweetness surrounded by dry tannins. Plum and tobacco, yup some cherry.
Very popular amongst 18 tasters downtown!