WTN: 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Mastrojanni Tuscany Italy.

2001 Brunello di Montalcino Mastrojanni Tuscany Italy. 13.5% alcohol. $72 a half bottle at Café Fiorello, New York. Imported by Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, New York.

Deep red color, deep hue, very good aroma of fruit, spice and hints of earth, with strong cherry notes, very good flavor of fruit and spice, with some coffee, tobacco and chocolate notes, edgy tannins and firm acidity, a bit harsh on the finish, perhaps not really in balance now [but what can you do with restaurant wines?], medium mouth feel, long fruit and spice finish, but with a somewhat unpleasant edge. This might be better in full bottle, but at this price point, hard to recommend. 3*.

The wine went very well with our main courses, Agnolotti -- spinach & ricotta ravioli, with parmesan gratinee and a tomato sauce based Gnocchi special. Our Willie Nelson concert ran over a few minutes, we missed our reservation at La Madelaine by five minutes, but once again Café Fiorello proved to be a great go to last resort -- and on the way home to boot.

Regards, Bob


Importer notes:

Mastrojanni winery was settled in 1976 and is now one of the best-recognized traditional Brunello producers operating in Montalcino. Nowadays estate vineyards extend over 44 hectares, all concentrated in the southeastern part of Montalcino, locality Podere San Pio / Loreto. In this area old-vine Sangiovese plantings take advantage of a highly beneficial micro-climate, influenced by nearby Mount Amiata, an extinguished volcano. Soils are rich in gravel and clay, lie on limestone-based bedrock and afford premium South/South-East exposure. Such unique terroir combined with dedicated vine growing and a winemaking protocol respectful of tradition makes for the production of a most distinctive, long-lived and consistent style of Brunello di Montalcino.

Along with a handful of other families native of Montalcino and committed since the early 70’s to the making of authentic Brunello (such as Talenti, Lisini, Cinelli-Colombini, Costanti and Biondi-Santi), Mastrojanni represents a solid milestone in the history of Montalcino and its great Sangiovese-based wines. A further proof of the complete dedication of Mastrojanni family to quality winemaking is high quality of the house Rosso di Montalcino, consistently one of the finest and deepest Rosso available on the market every year.

Mastrojanni estate vineyards are situated in locality Castelnuovo dell’Abate (south-eastern Montalcino), a limited area regarded by fine connoisseurs of Montalcino as the cradle of the some of the deepest and broadest Brunello of all. Castelnuovo dell’Abate-grown Brunello is renowned for its masculine aromatic profile, exhibiting distinctive aromas such as ripe black plums, cinnamon, pipe tobacco and game. All wines at Mastrojanni age in 100% Slavonia oak casks (capacity ranging from 30 to 60 hl.), except for Toscana Igt San Pio, a Supertuscan wine that takes some French oak.

Thanks for your post, Bob. I cant but cringe at the price for a half bottle of Brunello. I am spoiled with BYOB's in Philadelphia. Does not help, too, that the Euro is so high.

I appreciate reading about what type of oak barrels this producer uses; to me, it is very crucial in picking a wine. Also, the unpleasant edge you mentioned, would you say that was slight bitterness? I have encountered that in Tuscan wines.

I guess my question, too, is - have you ever enjoyed a half bottle of wine like a full bottle? I always feel cheated and think the wine is not the same - maybe it's psychological. What do you think??

[James Roscoe]

Paulo, I told Bob you were putting together an offline in Philly this summer. I'm hoping I DID put you on the spot!

Great notes Bob! One of these days....

Paulo, I like some half bottles very much -- if Janet is not having wine they can work very well, although the new cork and carry bags make it much more convenient to take unfinished wine home.

I don't think I've ever had an Italian wine in half bottle that was as good as I think it would have been in a full bottle. Something about the acidity perhaps -- and my impression is that there are less Italian wines sold in half bottle -- at least they are harder to find in my area.

Zinfandels, Bordeaux and many whites seem just as good in half bottles to me. But, I do think half bottles are handled with less care at the retail level. Many times you find them near the cash registers where there is more light and more heat.

Cork and carry has taken away a great deal of their appeal for me.

Regards, Bob

PS: I thought of you during that meal -- Café Fiorello is right across from Lincoln Center, and a number of diners were muscians based on the conversations around us.

Paulo, I like some half bottles very much -- if Janet is not having wine they can work very well, although the new cork and carry bags make it much more convenient to take unfinished wine home.

I don't think I've ever had an Italian wine in half bottle that was as good as I think it would have been in a full bottle. Something about the acidity perhaps -- and my impression is that there are less Italian wines sold in half bottle -- at least they are harder to find in my area.

Zinfandels, Bordeaux and many whites seem just as good in half bottles to me. But, I do think half bottles are handled with less care at the retail level. Many times you find them near the cash registers where there is more light and more heat.

Cork and carry has taken away a great deal of their appeal for me.

Regards, Bob

PS: I thought of you during that meal -- Café Fiorello is right across from Lincoln Center, and a number of diners were muscians based on the conversations around us.

I see a lot more of the half bottles when I am in Italy. I think on this recent trip I had a 2004 Col D'Orcia Rosso di Montalcino - I think.

In the early 90's I had more gigs at Lincoln Center as a professional chorister with the NY Philharmonic. Now I am older and crankier and usually just stay in the Philly area!