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WTN: Mas La Plana '02, '97 Barolo and Barbaresco and Oremus

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Jay Labrador

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WTN: Mas La Plana '02, '97 Barolo and Barbaresco and Oremus

by Jay Labrador » Tue Apr 03, 2007 9:26 am

Over a month ago Jojo offered to open his Gaja Barbaresco 1997 for one of our wine lunches. This being a short work week in the Philippines - Thursday to Monday being holidays and with lots of people already on vacation, we thought the time was right for another leisurely liquid lunch. The Gaja dictated the choice of food so this time we chose the Italian restaurant Pepato.

The wines:

Torres Mas La Plana 2002 - This was supposed to be an Italian lunch but Johnny just couldn't resist opening this. Besides, he figured the Ruffino Modus Supertuscan he originally planned to bring would be too heavy for lunch. Pure Cabernet Sauvignon I think. Some chocolate and grilled meat on the nose. Very lean and forward. Much lighter than I expected although it has good, sweet fruit. I felt it was a bit overoaked as that was the characterstic that lingered on the finish. A very good wine to drink now. I doubt this will improve much more although it is very young. It just doesn't seem to have the stuffing for long-term aging. I think also a little expensive for what it offers. I've had Mas La Plana from other vintages and this one just doesn't seem up to scratch.

Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Enrico VI 1997 - Very fragrant. Even with minimal airing the aromas come right out of the glass. Flowery and scent of oranges as well. About an hour after opening Jojo detected some camphor. Mint was also showing. Medium-bodied. Drinking very well now. Juicy, impeccable balance. Everything in the right place. Lots of sweet berry fruit. Modern Barolo but oak is used judiciously. While it made for an excellent drink by itself, with the lamb shank prepared like osso bucco this wine was truly outstanding with enough power and flavor to cut through the strong sauce. The food also brought out more sweetness in the wine. Long, tannic, finish. So good now but the tannins suggest some short term development still possible. Best wine of the lunch.

Gaja Barbaresco 1997 - Supposed to be the star of the show but this just refused to shine. Closed. Oaky, disjointed. A little leathery and very, very tannic. Way, way too young. This needs some serious aging. This is a big wine but in an awkward stage now. Jojo suggested to try again in 6 months but I think a couple of years would be more like it. Fortunately, Jojo has a few more bottles of this and I have 2 myself so we can track the development of this wine over some years.

Oremus Late Harvest Tokaji 2002 - After the massive Nebbiolos, this was a good, refreshing drink. Just a late harvest wine so no puttonyos although I thought the nose showed some botrytis character. Good dessert wine gold color. Light, gently sweet and well-balanced. Fruit salad. Some butterscotch and caramelized sugar. Very nice if you want something on the light side.

Lots of activities coming up in the next 3 weeks. Another Italian dinner at Johnny's restaurant, dinner at Lemuria, the visit of one of the Ceretto brothers and hopefully a wine dinner with WLDG's Kyrstyn Story (who will be in Manila soon) to look forward to.

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