WTN: rouge & blanc '05 Loire

With duck in red wine, sesame noodles, and beans, the 2005 Domaine de la Chanteleuserie Bourgueil Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. I bought this based on positive notes re the producer from Gilman and just because Chambers Street carried it (in the Loire the latter holds great weight to me). Initially I found it simple and grapey. Then with dinner I couldn't make any judgements- Betsy had used a variant on the sesame noodle recipe in the NYT mag, using Szechuan peppercorns. Their tingly/numbing qualities made it hard to taste accurately , but I revisited the Bourgueil later that evening and again with burgers Wednesday. It had definitely shed the grapiness and developed deeper black cherry fruit, with accents of herbs and tobacco. Good ripeness and balanced acidity, but lacking the minerality and precision I've found in my favorite 2005 red Loires. Happy to drink it, but not especially looking for more. B

While paying bills and crunching numbers for colleges, a couple glasses of the 2005 Pinon "Cuvée Tradition" Vouvray. Moderately sweet, good firm acids, clean chalky finish. Apple and tangerine fruit, tasty and fun. Excellent value at $15ish. B+

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

I had never heard of Chanteleuserie until this morning when I got an email ad from a local shop selling the '05 Bourgueil Cuvee Beauvais. Sounds like the VV was your first experience with this producer, Dale?

Yes, I think I happened to read a positive note re the 2004 regular bottling in John Gilman's View from the Cellar and then saw the '05 VV on the CSW website. I'd like to read others' views, as the part with the peppercorns was rather distorting.

I'll email you this ad but take it for what it's worth as it's written by the importer.

The Chanteluserie wines are worthy enough efforts, but you should not go to them expecting what you might find from Baudry, or Breton, or Alliet, or etc.

The Chanteluserie wines are worthy enough efforts, but you should not go to them expecting what you might find from Baudry, or Breton, or Alliet, or etc.

I've had quite a few bottles of the VV, the Cuvée Alouettes and the Cuvée Beauvais (in earlier vintages, none from '05) and SFJoe put it better than I could. I like them and will buy a bottle or two when I see them at a good price (because I'm a red Loire freak) but they're not as good as Baudry or Breton.

Thanks Joe and Bruce. Given that Breton's wines are so affordable around here anyway, I guess I'll stick with them.

Sounds like maybe a decent fallback on a restaurant list, but not something to search for. Alliet is a new name to me, will keep eyes open.

[James Roscoe]

Timely note. I will be down at a Loire only tasting next Thursday in the French Embassy. MacArthurs is sponsoring the wine portion. There will also be a lot of seafood. I am looking forward to it. I have some producers to look for while I'm there.