Killer Chardonnay

[Jenise]

This is the topic I've been handed for next month's neighborhood wine tasting--the idea is to show people who typically never spend more than $10 on a chardonnay what the world beyond Kendall Jackson looks like.

I've bought the 2001 Montelena already. I'm probably going to buy 2004 Mer et Soleil too--no matter what you think of it, it's certainly distinctive. Shafer Red Shoulder Ranch is another Californian that might fit the theme based on the last bottle I had several years ago. My partner in planning this event suggested Kistler and Pahlmeyer but I think that's mostly on name value, not his own experience. It's my experience with both that there are comparable or better wines for half the money.

But I'm not limited to California. I'm fishing for a good Meursault at auction. Would love to include a wine from Australia's Hunter Valley. I'm stumped for a Washington or Oregon representative--Abeja? Woodward Canyon?

Help! I need names!

Jenise,
glad you got the Montelena. My usual favorite US Chard. Very different from KJ!

With the pre-ox issues with white Burgundy, I'd be cautious buying older Chardonnay (unless pre-94). And of course provenance matters even more. If you want Meursault you might try the wines of Henri Boillot,but they've gotten pricey (or if money's no object, there's always Coche-Dury). Matrot tends to be very good and well-priced. Bouchard is a big negociant, but I like their Perrieres 1er as well as the village Le Clous.

If you want Cotes d'Or but it doesn't need to be Meursault, Paul Pernot makes great Pulignys at all levels- and well priced. Actually, due to aging concerns, I mostly buy Bourgogne Blancs from Pernot (as a replacement for Puligny) and Matrot (replacement for Meursault) and drink them young. I also like the St Aubin Murgers-Dents-Chiens 1er from Denis and Francoise Clair a lit.

You don't mention Chablis. Great and distinctive Chardonnay, if your guests don't include Joe Perry.

Sure you will get some great ideas here.

[Jenise]

You don't mention Chablis. Great and distinctive Chardonnay, if your guests don't include Joe Perry.

I know, I know. But I would worry about Chablis. My experience is that it doesn't show well young and can be a turnoff for inexperienced palates which most of our guests are--and perhaps even more so among a group that includes heavy hitter Californians. You don't think so?

You know, it's always a challenge to be both educational and entertaining at these tastings--at our Grenache tasting on Friday night, a complex, structured 2004 CdP was dead last by a long shot. I was one of two people out of 56 who included it in their top three, where a way too simple $6 wine had many fans just because it was ready to drink. I'm afraid a Chablis would suffer the same fate.

I'd take a chance on an under$20 regional level Chablis, from someone like Savary. Maybe Alan U. will chime in with a suggestion.

Hi Jenise,

For Oregon what about the DDO Arthur Chardonnay? Very nice wine, IMO.

One I really like from Macon that you can find locally is Bret Brothers/ La Soufrandiere. Vic had some at the Co-op not too long ago. I don't know if this producer is on your radar, but they make some killer white burgundy for $20-30. The 2002 Pouilly Vinzelles Les Quarts is drinking great right now.

Here's a link:
http://www.bretbrothers.com/en/lasoufrandiere.php


Nothing jumps to mind for WA Chardonnay, sorry.

Best,
Marc

[Jenise]

Marc, I'm unfamiliar with that producer. But I'll run down to the CoOp tomorrow and check it out--thanks!

I am not a Chard fan at all, but the best out of Washington IMHO comes from Chateau Ste. Michelle -- their Canoe Ridge and Ethos bottlings. Domaine Serene tops the Oregon charts.

[Jenise]

Randy, I've had the Canoe Ridge, but not the Ethos. In fact, until yesterday, I'd never seen a bottle and I know nothing about it. Can you shed any light on the style, or what makes it special?

Domaine Serene--not surprised.

Attica! Attica! Attica!

Ahem, I mean: Kalin! Kalin! Kalin!

Mount Eden too.

I'm a big fan of Rijckaert from Macon.


Best,
Joe

p.s. I bought a Chablis yesterday. 2001 Moreau Vaillons for $25. Finally, Chablis that's priced right!

CSM limits their Ethos bottling to no more than one percent of the vintage -- very selective grapes. The wine is barrel fermented in 60% new and one-year-old French oak, 100 percent sur lie aged for eight months, and malolatic fermentation -- you know, the SOS. It usually shows nice balance (if a bit soft for my palate), is medium to full bodied, and underscored by pear, tropical fruit and citrus notes. The wood is just too much for my palate, although my neighbor (I gave him the sample bottle after I poured a taste) thought it was nectar of the gods.

St Innocent?

St Innocent?

Mediocre IMO. Pinots are another story...

[Jenise]

Actually, Bucko, I think Lou's suggestion of St. Innocent is pretty cool. The Freedom Hill isn't subtle or elegant, but "killer" fits. Too, it packs a lot of wallop for the money.

St Innocent?

Mediocre IMO. ...

I wasn't making a reco for my own palate. The last couple of ones I've tasted were pretty OAKY.

Actually, Bucko, I think Lou's suggestion of St. Innocent is pretty cool.

To each their own. I can only comment on how the wine is for me -- mediocre.

If I drink Chardonnay, it is Chablis the vast majority of the time. A friend served me some Olivier Leflaive 2004 not too long ago, but I do not know the bottling. It was very good and he said it was only $38 a bottle. FWIW.

One of the most interesting Chardonnays I've had in the last few years was from Kumeu River in NZ, very distinctive flavors.

One of the most interesting Chardonnays I've had in the last few years was from Kumeu River in NZ, very distinctive flavors.

I agree, Dan. Here is my note on the '05:

2005 Kumeu River, Chardonnay, Village, Kumeu, New Zealand, $19, 600 cases imported. Peaches and flint underscore the wine, with hints of green apples and cotton candy. Balanced, with nice minerality and a peachy finish; 89/91.

[Jenise]

One of the most interesting Chardonnays I've had in the last few years was from Kumeu River in NZ, very distinctive flavors.

I agree, Dan. Here is my note on the '05:

2005 Kumeu River, Chardonnay, Village, Kumeu, New Zealand, $19, 600 cases imported. Peaches and flint underscore the wine, with hints of green apples and cotton candy. Balanced, with nice minerality and a peachy finish; 89/91.

I'd forgotten all about this wine. I've had past vintages and I agree, it's a great and wildly different chardonnay. It definitely has the character I'm looking for for this tasting. Thanks!

Maybe an unoaked Cal chard for contrast? Sierra Vista's is nice (and cheap).

[Jenise]

Maybe an unoaked Cal chard for contrast? Sierra Vista's is nice (and cheap).

Mike, I was thinking of serving unoaked chards for the snack wines--Sierra Vista is a great suggestion. We always put out 8 or 9 bottles for people to self-pour during set-up.

The 2002 Pouilly Vinzelles Les Quarts is drinking great right now.

Hmm, I opened a bottle of this tonight to go with grilled Coho salmon, and it is showing much more butterscotch oak right now than the last bottle a few months ago. Oh well.

I'm stumped for a Washington or Oregon representative--Abeja? Woodward Canyon?

Forgeron gets my vote for best WA Chardonnay. They make a (very moderately) oaked cuvee, and unoaked as well, but I believe the unoaked is sold out.

http://www.forgeroncellars.com/

Dave

Dave, I forgot all about the Forgeron unoaked Chard -- it is indeed worth the effort to obtain, but it sells out quickly.

Actually, I wonder if they made an unoaked Chard in '05. Nobody at Cellartracker has a bottle anyway. It would be a shame if that were true.

Dave