Wading through a lengthy backlog over the past several months, here are notes on a bunch of Loire reds:
Bernard Baudry 2004 Chinon Les Granges, $13
Very nice nose mixing grape, cherry, herbs and a light floral touch. On the palate, rich grape and cherry fruit are also accented by herbs. Medium-bodied with good fruit; a little grapier than I’d prefer but effusive, complex and vibrant enough to make it enjoyable anyway. Excellent match with pesto. Two days later, it’s less grapey, more herbal and complex with plenty of bright fruit still there. Excellent wine and went very nicely with leftover vegetarian chili. Importer: Louis/Dressner.
Couly-Dutheil 2004 Chinon Les Gravieres d'Amador Abbe de Turpenay, $11.80
This has a very nice nose mixing light cherry fruit, flowers, herbs, minerals and earth. The palate follows with more cherry fruit accented by lots of minerals and some earth and herbs. Light-bodied but quite pleasant, smooth and refreshing. Excellent match with spaghetti. Importer: Elite Wine Imports.
Domaine Filliatreau 2003 Saumur Château Fouquet, $12
The nose is pleasant, with a mix of cherry, barnyard, dark earth and some herbs and flowers. The palate starts out with cherry, dark earth and a few herbs, but is marred by a pronounced bitter tannic streak. This lessens with air and food but never goes entirely away. Still, it tastes better and is a decent match with cheese pupusas. This is a victim of the vintage, OK but not up to its usual high standards. Importer: Louis/Dressner.
Henry Pellé 2003 Menetou-Salon rouge Morogues, $20
This is darker colored and has darker smells and flavors than a typical red Menetou-Salon but it’s still refreshing and delightful. It has black cherry, earth, a fair amount of smoke and maybe a touch of cinnamon on the nose. On the palate, there are black cherry, earth, mineral and gamy flavors. It retained nice acidity, was very smooth and made an excellent match with Lebanese baked and stuffed eggplant. The next day, it turns a bit harsher and bitter. This was affected by the vintage but unlike the Filliatreau, not unduly harmed, at least on the first night. Importer: Michael Skurnick.
Pierre-Jacques Druet 1996 Chinon Clos de Danzay, $12.50
This bottle is very light and restrained with still-vibrant tart cherry the most notable element, with some very light earthy accents on the nose and palate. Very smooth and harmonious but not a lot of complexity. Quite enjoyable nevertheless and a very fine match with chicken Mirabella. The next night, it’s a little better and more distinctive. Austere, but with some cedary elements coming into play along with the light tart cherry. The structure and even the tannins are, curiously, more notable. Excellent with a range of cheeses. Importer: Kysela.
Chateau de Fesles 2002 Anjou Vieilles Vignes, $17
This has a very nice nose (for me, anyway) mixing a little barnyard with lots of herbs, a few green pepper notes and some minerals. On the palate, nice red fruits are surprisingly soft with herbal and mineral nuances. With some air time, some bitter tannins emerge but overall this is pleasant and smooth, with decent acidity. Excellent match with pesto. Importer: The Country Vintner.
Clos Roche Blanche 2004 Touraine Cuvée Gamay, $14
As with two previous bottles, this has overwhelming merde and funk on the nose. The palate is better, not funky or unpleasant, but nice tart cherry fruit with a touch of minerals. Texturally, it seems as though there’s a bit of petillance, this is definitely flawed in some way, but taste-wise it’s pleasant enough and goes very nicely with fajitas. Three days later, the nose is just as stinky as before. The palate is a bit improved with some rich cran-cherry fruit accented by minerals. Importer: Louis/Dressner.
Domaine de la Pépière 2005 Vin de Pays de Jardin de la France Marches de Bretagne Cuvée Granit, $13
Gorgeous nose of herbs, cherry, minerals and a touch of flowers. On the palate, there is nice bright tart cherry fruit with lots of herbs, minerals and earth and even a touch of chocolate on the finish. Plenty of structure from high acidity and some tannins, but great with food and up to its usual excellent standards. Super match with eggplant/onion pizza. Two days later, it’s still excellent but more herbal, though in a way that I like. Importer: Louis/Dressner.
Yves Martin 2003 Sancerre rouge Chavignol, $20
This is very earthy, cinnamony and gamy with nice bright tart cherry fruit on the nose and palate. Very balanced, not extracted or New Worldy, perhaps a bit more concentrated than usual but very enjoyable and smooth. Excellent match with capellini primavera. The next day, it’s a little less distinctive and more generic tasting but still pleasant and silky smooth; excellent match with a boca burger. Importer: Michael Skurnick.
Domaine Sauvète 2005 Touraine Gamay “Passion,” $12
Very pleasant, with lots of rich strawberry accented by some tart black cherry and some earth and minerals on the nose and palate. It tastes like fruity gamay, nothing special but enjoyable and an excellent match with pupusas. Two nights later, it’s better. The nose is more effusive with lots of flowers and the palate is more complex with tart fruit well balanced by earthiness and minerality. Importer: Dionysos Imports.
Bernard Baudry 1999 Chinon Les Grezeaux, $16.50
This is lighter and more tart than a previous bottle, which I had opened several years ago and loved, but it’s still delightful with tart strawberry fruit accented by lots and lots of earthy minerals. Despite the tartness and acidity, it’s smooth and balanced, mature but still with good vibrant fruit, just more strawberry than cherry, and the mineral element is terrific. Outstanding match with garlic top pesto. Importer: Louis/Dressner.