WTN: 2003 Pirramimma McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon

It had been literally years since I had an Australian Cab Sauvignon, so today I made a special trip to Vintages to pick up a bottle of one of the Aussie Cabs that the Vintages website had expressly characterized as "... a powerhouse with aromas of blackcurrant, dark berries and cedar. Dry and full-bodied, it has masses of ripe fruit balanced by gripping tannins ...". This was exactly the sort of wine I was looking for, what with marinated beefsteak ready to go on the grill. As it turned out, the wine was indeed just what I had envisioned.

14% alc.; solid high-quality natural cork closure. Intense, saturated garnet colour; nearly opaque. Big aromas of oak and pinpoint blackcurrants (perfect definition thanks to proper ripeness), cedar and, true to the Vintages write-up, other dark berry fruit. Immediately tense and grippy on the entry with fantastic tannin and dryness - superbly correct and proper. Wonderfully dry, yet powerfully aromatic and flavourful; it's a muscular Cab. The finish is big, grippy and tannic, though balanced. There's lots of wood, but it doesn't stick out because the wine in general is big and tough, and there is a good amount of integration.

I love Cabernet Sauvignon - when it's grown in an appropriate climate. Although the grape is universally revered, I once read someone's comments which said that there is no worse wine than Cab Sauvignon grown in the wrong climate ... and I would agree. Oz is certainly a "right" climate for this grape. Anyway, I'm certain I'll be going back for more Aussie Cabs on those occasions when I happen not to be having Pinotage with steak (my usual steak wine).

[Jenise]

Oz is certainly a "right" climate for this grape.

Paul, sorry to nit here, but on behalf of our Southern Hemisphere friends I have to point out that that's like saying "the United States is the right climate for ____ wine." It's a huge country with many different climates, only some of which are right for cabernet.

It's a huge country with many different climates, only some of which are right for cabernet.

Before I say "nit not", I should explain that there was an unspoken subtext to that quip of mine. It's true that Australia has varied climates - in the hotter, more humid areas, they actually grow Chambourcin.

As you might know, I often bemoan the fact that in Ontario, the varietal Cab Sauvignons are nothing like this wine; they almost always taste thin and green, and although they may be tannic, it's usually green tannin. Also, when is the last time I've picked up that beautiful pinpoint cassis/blackcurrant on the nose of an Ontario VQA Cab? I think some of them do have it, but unfortunately it's the ones that cost like $40-$50 and are made in tiny quantities by true hands-on growers - such wines are not the majority. And vintage is another key deciding factor. Heck, I really liked that B.C. Cab that I tried a few weeks ago; it was ripe and proper. I'm not a habitual cynic, but I do think that there are cool-climate wineries that should be focusing on grapes that better fit their growing conditions and ripen without a consistent green streak - and there are other viniferas even that fit this bill. I think we see lots of "holy grail" thinking (or have, traditionally) where Cab is concerned.

Ergo, my praise for Australia's ability to produce properly blackcurranty Cab.

Paul, if you want to try some other Ozzie cabs, I suggest you try some from Coonawarra or Western Australia: these are normally seen in Oz as being appropriately 'cool climate' regions for which to best grow cabernet. Down there, heat and ripening isn't an issue like in Canada - indeed, too much heat is usually the problem for cabs from Barossa or McLaren Vale.